Graphophone Model BF ca 1910

[Lucius1958]

If your BF has no 2/4 minute attachment, and has the "Graphophone" decal (rather than the "Columbia Graphophone" version), it's probably an earlier model - at least earlier than 1909.

Also, a question: your reproducer seems to be identical to the one on my BF - does the lift lever on the carriage make contact with, and raise, the stylus bar when the half nut is disengaged? I ask because mine does not, and I am trying to figure out whether the reproducer is correct for the machine…

Bill

[jboger]

Curt: thanks very much for all the help. I believe it hasn't been touched in years and has a lot of dirt on it. The stenciling that I do see seems to be original. I did tried to remove the mechanism from the box, but seems to be in there pretty tight. I will try again and of course go cautiously. Things can go south pretty fast, if you know what I mean.

To Leo and Jerry: Thanks for the input. I go to auctions rather frequently. I've done so for a good number of years. I've always noticed these machines, but never indulged. I bought this one in a shop however. Glad I did. I'll look for these cylinders but sounds near impossible to find them.

To Lucious: No Columbia, just Graphophone. I have not looked thoroughly everywhere, but I so far have not seen the word Columbia anywhere, perhaps on the small label on the back. Will check. As for your other question, let me check and I will post a response a little later.

[Curt A]

If your BF has no 2/4 minute attachment, and has the "Graphophone" decal (rather than the "Columbia Graphophone" version), it's probably an earlier model - at least earlier than 1909.

Also, a question: your reproducer seems to be identical to the one on my BF - does the lift lever on the carriage make contact with, and raise, the stylus bar when the half nut is disengaged? I ask because mine does not, and I am trying to figure out whether the reproducer is correct for the machine…

Bill

Bill,
If your Lyric reproducer looks like the one pictured, it should be correct and the lift lever should raise the stylus from the cylinder. Check to see if the lift lever engages the little "L" shaped part of the stylus bar. As I remember, there is a little part that engages the stylus bar which can be bent.

[jboger]

Bill: I hope Curt has answered your question because I'm not sure what you mean by half-nut. There is a knurled knob at the top that one loosens to remove the reproducer and tightens to put it back, but I don't think you refer to that. That's just operating a clamp to secure the reproducer. Your question prompted me to look at the mechanism of raising and lowering the stylus. It's rather simple but of course difficult to explain with words. The lift lever on the carriage--that part we use to play the machine--simply makes contact with an "L" shaped bar that has a pivot at one end and the stylus at the other. Raise the carriage lift lever and it makes contact with the "L" shaped bar that pivots such that the stylus makes contact with the cylinder. Lower the carriage lift lever, and the spring that you see in my photo restores the stylus to the raised position (i.e. away from the cylinder). Well, I'm probably telling you what you already know. Anyway, I'm grateful for all this help. It made me look at the reproducer to see how it works. Now I just need to get the mechanism free of the box to (1) see how original it is and (2) clean it as dirt can lead to excessive wear.

[Curt A]

"Now I just need to get the mechanism free of the box to (1) see how original it is and (2) clean it as dirt can lead to excessive wear."

After removing the crank and pulling out the tabs that lock the lid in place, just hold onto the mechanism and lift it straight out of the case. It may be stuck, since it hasn't been removed in a long time, so have someone hold the case while you lift the mechanism. If it is still stuck, spray some WD-40 along the bedplate edge to loosen it... I would say use a thin knife or box cutter and run around the edge, but if you do, be careful not to mar the wood. The bedplate and mechanism just sits inside the wood frame and is not screwed in... maybe just rock it a little until in loosens up.

[Bruce]

jboger,

Congratulations on your nice new acquisition. I have sent a personal message to you for some advice on this machine as I just restored one very much like yours, except mine is a rear mount machine (BFT)

The BF came standard with a 14 inch All Brass (sometimes black and brass) horn but any of the Columbia brass horns were available.

If you are interested in the larger flowered aftermarket horns you will need a horn crane. They come up on ebay every now and then but expect to pay a couple hundred for the crane and 2 - 3 hundred for a nice horn.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291189215657?ss ... fresh=true

Bruce

[gramophone78]

Clean any hardened gunk on the gears with kerosene and a toothbrush initially or carburetor cleaner. Then re-lube the gears with white lithium grease or a good motor oil.

Carburetor cleaner is the biggest "NO NO" you could ever get near any machine. Carburetor cleaner is for just "that" carburetor's. Not only will it remove dirt,it will remove any and all finishes on a 100+ year old machine.
Better in the hands of a "auto" mechanic..... .

[Bruce]

jboger,

If you have not been able to remove the bed plate assembly yet persistence will work.

The bed plate rests on and in the wood case with four (one in each corner) metal pins extending down from the bed plate. These pins rested on rubber washer type cups which sat in holes in the wood case. Over time the rubber disintegrates and forms like a glue between the bed plate and the case.

No amount of lubricant or cutting will help this - just pull hard and hold on so parts don't go flying when the rubber gives way.

Bruce

[Curt A]

"Carburetor cleaner is the biggest "NO NO" you could ever get near any machine. Carburetor cleaner is for just "that" carburetor's. Not only will it remove dirt,it will remove any and all finishes on a 100+ year old machine."

Sorry, but I have to respond... This is the most ridiculous comment that I have heard. I never suggested using carburetor cleaner on the "finish of a 100+ year old machine". Please do not put words in my mouth or re-interpret what I said. If you are worried about using stuff that actually works, then don't use it... your choice.

I have used carburetor cleaner on metal parts for years and believe me when I say this... it won't hurt metal parts. Motors should be taken out of the cabinets to clean them and with them removed, no damage can be done to the cabinet. 100 year old graphite mixed with whatever type of grease was available back then is a pain in the a$$ to remove and it doesn't come off with soap and water.

Carburetor cleaner is not just for carburetors, as it is formulated to remove old hardened gunk and works well on all types of old hardened gunk. I seriously doubt that you have ever worked on a motor, considering your comments. Kerosene works well too, along with acetone and alcohol, but I seriously doubt that you would want to get acetone or alcohol on any finish - and I wouldn't suggest it. The comments that I have made are a result of many years of actual restoration experience and are not just whimsical ideas with no basis...

[Le0]

Pray the lord, no GOJO or other cleaner debate

seems like I prayed vainly