Back Together Again?

[SydneyAde]

Hi folks, I recently purchased a Standard A for parts/repair, but unfortunately
it suffered on its way to my place.

I hope I have the terminology correct, but in any case, it's broken.

The reproducer carriage shaft, cast iron mounting bracket, broke in transit.

Is it possible to braze this, or should be be repaired some other way?

Such a shame that this had survived in such wonderful condition for
over 100 years…

Ade

[Curt A]

Since the part is on the top of the shaft and basically just holds it in place, I would try using two part JB Weld (Red & Black tubes - not the 5min type) and see if that holds - the color is black when mixed so it shouldn't be obvious. It will take 24 hrs to harden, so don't mess with it until cured. Don't do it with the shaft in place or it will be permanently installed. Clean both sides with alcohol first to remove any oil/grease. Also, it looks like there is a set screw in the top part. Remove that first and roll up a piece of paper and put it in the hole to keep any epoxy from getting in. Wipe any excess off immediately with alcohol... When you replace the set screw, don't tighten it excessively...

[Bruce]

Ade

You have a nice looking machine there.

After you repair the break with JB Weld and it has cured you should sand the inside of the brace (where the hole is)

The best method to do this is to cut a slot into the end of a wooden dowel and insert a small piece of emery cloth, or sand paper. Wrap the sand paper around the end of the dowel with a portion in the cut to hold it in place. Insert the dowel into the hole and sand away any JB weld so the carriage brace fits easily. The Carriage Brace does not move once you have locked it down with the set screws, so just enough sanding so that it fits in easily.

If this proves to be a hobby, or in many cases an obsession, I highly recommend that you buy Eric REISS' book "The Compleat Talking Machine". It is the repair and collecting bible for phonographs.

Bruce

[Curt A]

Use a black Sharpie marker to touch up the crack if necessary...

[Chuck]

Yes, cast iron can be brazed.

Someone skilled at doing it would probably
scarf the outside edges at an angle to allow
the brazing more area to fasten to.

I wonder if JB Weld will really hold up
very good for that repair. I have my doubts
but that's just because I have never had much
luck with that kind of stuff in the past.

I'd say at least find a welder who does
fine brazing and have him take a look and
see what he says. If it's not workable then
JB Weld is always a backup plan.

But, I, personally, would try to get that brazed.

Chuck

[SydneyAde]

Thanks for your respective advice Curt, Bruce and Chuck, I'll need to have
a serious think about which way to go.

Regards

[Curt A]

You can always try brazing if the JB Weld doesn't work... I have had very good success with making minor repairs like this using that method. I have even seen cast iron bedplates that were broken in two put back together securely and permanently with JB Weld. My point in recommending this method, is that it is repairing a part that does not have any high stress associated with it and is not likely to break again.

The biggest issue with brazing is that it will burn off the black finish not only on the small repaired part, but the surrounding area as well. Welding will be harder to create a small unnoticeable seam. Also, there is the risk that the person doing the brazing might overheat the area and warp it or blow out an area, as this is an extremely small repair.

Cast iron is not the easiest metal to weld and that method might be overkill... Here is a link to cast iron welding:

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... etail.aspx

[SydneyAde]

Thanks again Curt, you've been incredibly helpful. I like your idea of the adhesive,
given the upright support bracket surrounds the shaft by about 200 degrees, and
as you say, there's not a lot of force on the piece broken off.

The only problem I see, would be if and when it came to selling it, I'd need to
make reference to the break…. I'm aiming for Edison's to be a part of my impending
retirement hobby..

Regards

Ade

[SydneyAde]

Hi again Bruce

I took your advice and purchased a copy of Eric Reiss' book, a very good resource, thank you!

Now I have a further question, is it likely that the corner decal on the bedplate in my pic above is original?

Ade

Ade

You have a nice looking machine there.

After you repair the break with JB Weld and it has cured you should sand the inside of the brace (where the hole is)

The best method to do this is to cut a slot into the end of a wooden dowel and insert a small piece of emery cloth, or sand paper. Wrap the sand paper around the end of the dowel with a portion in the cut to hold it in place. Insert the dowel into the hole and sand away any JB weld so the carriage brace fits easily. The Carriage Brace does not move once you have locked it down with the set screws, so just enough sanding so that it fits in easily.

If this proves to be a hobby, or in many cases an obsession, I highly recommend that you buy Eric REISS' book "The Compleat Talking Machine". It is the repair and collecting bible for phonographs.

Bruce

[NEFaurora]

I believe that is not a decal that you are referring to but original Gold pinstriping paint for the Painted grass "tufts" in the corner.. Original Gold grass "tufts" ends were painted as was the gold pinstriping, not decals like the repro decals sold, though the decals are accurate. Edison did use decals for things such a some logos, and "Edison" labels originally. Most bedplates had hand painted pinstriping and grass ends though. Your bedplate looks in great shape minus the broken end. My suggestion is to disassemble and send the bedplate to a professional. They are a few of them on here. A good pro will fix it, and you'd never know it was ever broken. Some very late bedplates (E,F models)may have used decals on the bedplate, but definitely not the early bedplates like the Standard "A" that you have.

)

Tony K.