Back Together Again?

[SydneyAde]

Hi Tony

Thanks for your confirmation. Yes I wasn't sure what to call it, so I consulted my newly acquired Reiss book, and he seems to call it
a hand painted corner design on one page, then over the page (110) he calls the fancier designs, decals, and as you point out, there's
probably a distinction as the years progressed, hence the change in terminology from one page to the other....

It does resemble a grass tussock, although it's just a little different to what I had seen on other machines, where it clumps
at the base. But you know, I'm such a lazy goose, I should have looked at the actual other three corners first, rather than relying on the
pic before I posted this, as they are more akin to what I have mostly seen on other machines, as well as what are in the books.

In terms of repairs I was actually trying to avoid unnecessary expense in having it repaired professionally, but I think I would be more satisfied to know
it wouldn't come apart again in the wash… The only problem here in Sydney is that phonograph specialists are far and few between, although some
one who specialises in finer brazing work would probably suffice. Again, I appreciate your advice Tony.

Ade

I believe that is not a decal that you are referring to but original Gold pinstriping paint for the Painted grass in the corner.. Original Gold "grass" ends were painted as was the gold pinstriping, not decals like the repro decals sold, though the decals are accurate. Edison did use decals for things such a some logos, and "Edison" labels originally. Most bedplates had hand painted pinstriping and grass ends though. Your bedplate looks in great shape minus the broken end. My suggestion is to disassemble and send the bedplate to a professional. They are a few of them on here. A good pro will fix it, and you'd never know it was ever broken. Some very late bedplates (E,F models)may have used decals on the bedplate, but definitely not the early bedplates like the Standard "A" that you have.

)

Tony K.

[Curt A]

JB Weld is available in Australia:

http://jbweldit.com.au/

You need the Red & Black two part metal repair type.

http://jbweldit.com.au/index.php?main_p ... ucts_id=23

[RefSeries]

The real problem is that any tension on the clamping screw will tend to pull your joint apart. As has been mentioned, if you use some form of tube 'weld' I would not tighten that screw up more than finger tight, and rely on the clamping screw at the other end to hold the carriage rod. I epoxied a broken carriage once (never try to lift a Home by the lid handle...) and every time I tightened the reproducer clamp it came apart.

Good luck!

Keith

[SydneyAde]

Curt & Keith, thank you! This is all very useful advice.

Ade

[Curt A]

I wish I had stock in JB Weld... I really like how it works. It's totally different from regular epoxy. The long curing metal type is strong enough when set to drill and tap it. The only possible problem with your repair, is that there is not enough material in the break area to get a good fix. Try the two part stuff and see if it holds, if it does, you're good. If not, you can remake the entire area with JB Weld putty - shape it exactly like the original undrilled part of the bedplate. When cured, redrill the hole for the shaft and drill a hole for the set screw and tap it. That would be my last resort method...