Just got at auction VV 50--a portovicto

[jboger]

Just got back from an auction where I had left an absentee bid on this VV-50 (serial number 32265). I knew when I left the bid that it had a broken mainspring, but everything else seemed to be in really nice shape. When I got it home, I lifted the motorboard and horn (all one piece) out of the box and was rather pleased to find the box is solid mahogany. Quite dark and alligatored on the outside, but original. I will leave it that way. It has a single mainspring motor. Total price was a little under $30, which tells me that these are not very popular. But that's OK; I like things that are not popular. Cheaper that way. The reproducer is a No. 2 and looks to be in fine shape. Hope people might find it interesting. Now have too many projects. Waiting for some belt leather to arrive. Curt, if you are reading this, this stuff is so very addictive, as you once told me.

[alang]

Congratulations on your VV-50. You got a VERY good deal I think. They are actually quite popular, even though those in quartered oak get better prices. Regardless, a mahogany VV-50 complete but with a broken spring would still go for $100+ on ebay. Nice working examples command $250 and more. They are very nice machines and play well when serviced. I played mine at my daughter's outdoor wedding.
Thanks
Andreas

[CDBPDX]

Very nice machine! Congratulations!

[Curt A]

Congratulations, I DID tell you that these are addicting... but apparently you ignored that comment.

Yours is an early model with a front crank. They changed to a side crank shortly after that, but I like the front crank ones. In fact, I just bought another one to restore...

I have that same machine in mahogany and I love it. Mine was in pretty rough shape when I got it, missing pieces of wood, no reproducer, rusty, etc. and I paid $50 plus $100 for the reproducer to complete it. After hours of restoration, it looks as good as new...

VV-50s are really quite popular, since they play good, are solid wood portables and don't take up much space.

[Curt A]

This is mine after restoration, using my iPhone reproducer...

[jboger]

Curt, looks like a very nice machine. And it makes me think twice about refinishing the exterior of mine, which is rather dark and alligatored.

I have a couple of technical questions. I won't be able to get around to putting a mainspring in for a couple of weeks. But for the meantime, my problem is how to take the turntable off. Not sure whether it is stuck--a problem I can handle--or whether the turntable is fastened to the spindle in some other way. I see a slot, like for a screwdriver, in the spindle (is that the right word?). Am I supposed to unscrew something in order to remove the turntable? My other Victor models don't have this slot, but then they're not portable models. Maybe the VV-50 was designed so that the turntable somehow screwed on so it wouldn't come off in transport? if that's correct, which way do I turn the screwdriver to remove the turntable? I did try light force already, but I don't want to apply anymore force until I'm clear how to proceed. I hope one of the experts out there can shed some light on my problem.

In any case, the horn is attached to the motorboard with three screws. Two are visible in the back and easy to get at. The third is under the turntable. I want to remove the horn before I tackle the motor. I see everything there, including the governor and it's weights, and I think I feel the broken mainspring slipping when I turn the crank. I think the mainspring may be broken close to one end. If I'm lucky, all I may need to do is make a new hole and reattach the mainspring to the barrel. But I won't know that until I see the mainspring, and I won't see the mainspring until I remove the motor, and I won't remove the motor until I take the horn off--all of which requires getting that darn turntable off. (For want of the nail, the shoe was lost . . .)

I'm new to the forum. I hope I'm not a pest by asking all these questions from people who learned things the hard way. Knowledge is hard earned and comes with a price. I know.

[FloridaClay]

I would certainly concur that you got a real bargain. These are nice machines, Victor's first portable model, and they sound pretty good. I have an early mahogany front-wind just like yours. It was nicely refinished when I bought it, and I like it that way as the grain is really nice.

To remove the turntable, use a large screwdriver (so as not to mess up the spindle) and turn the spindle counter-clockwise while holding the turntable. It should screw right out. Then you should be able to lift the turntable straight up with no problem. As you surmised, it is made this way to hold the turntable on while the machine is being transported.

Clay

[Victrolacollector]

That IPOD reproducer looks cool. Is this a actual product that you can buy? How well does it work?

[jboger]

Clay: That is exactly what I needed to know. And counter clockwise it is. I shall wait until I come back from my before I do anything. I like to have a stretch of time ahead of me before tackling anything new. Thanks.

And yes, whatever Curt has there for sound reproduction is very interesting. Perhaps Curt will respond to the inquiry or start a new thread, as he wishes.

[Curt A]

The iPod reproducer is actually an idea of mine that I made so I didn't have to constantly wind and change records if people were over. It is easy to make, if you look at the pics. It is made from two pieces of schedule 40 plastic pipe fittings, a Boom Cube and a repro Victor flange. Boom Cubes available here: http://www.amazon.com/Boom-Cube-As-Seen ... B00A3EWBT6

The top part is a cap, the lower part is an insert which fits snugly inside the cap... I cut the insert with a hacksaw to fit the cube and drilled a sound hole in the bottom, then painted both parts and attached the flange. Now I have a rechargeable electronic reproducer which is amplified by the acoustic horn and is very loud. It accomplished my purpose and was extremely reasonable to make - less than $15 - maybe a little more if you don't have a flange. In rethinking this, you really don't need a flange, if you can find a small fitting that will fit over the tonearm and glue it to the insert.