Straightening warped wood

[HisMastersVoice]

I repaired a Harmony baseboard that looked exactly like yours by putting a towel over it, and liberally applying steam from an iron, then weighing it down under another board with a huge stack of 78s on top. I repeated this process several times. It wasn't 100% perfect, but I was able to get 90% of the curve out without damaging anything. I had better results when the steam was applied on the bottom of the board, and pressed with the bottom facing up.

[briankeith]

No the board will have to be totally refinished - that is the drawback. I have done two this way and both needed refinishing.

[Lenoirstreetguy]

HMV is right. Apply the moisture to the cupped side...in this case the bottom. You should be able to flatten it without too much damage to the finish. Be careful with the weight..you can split a board by being over-enthusiastic.

[TinfoilPhono]

putting a towel over it, and liberally applying steam from an iron, then weighing it down under another board with a huge stack of 78s on top.

Would there be any significant difference between using a towel soaked in very hot water (and partially squeezed out) as opposed to using steam? I would think in either case the heat would rapidly dissipate so the moisture would probably be the most important aspect of the process.

I would prefer not to refinish if possible, though it appears to be simply orange shellac so it most likely could be redone pretty simply and without it looking refinished since it should match the original closely.

This baseboard has no feet or labels so that's fortunately not a consideration for me.

[Curt A]

Obviously, the feet need to be removed first... that seems like common sense. You should also remove the sides and anything else that is attached, as it will be hard to press flat with items in the way.

As for the process, the question was: "How to straighten warped wood." The answer is above as described, use it at your own risk, with your own judgement as a guide.

Paper stickers probably will peel off, I suggest copying and reprinting them. If you don't want to lose them, then don't do it...

If the finish is more important than the warp, then that might be another reason not to do it. If you don't mind re-amalgamating the finish afterward, then this is the answer. Also, the finish may survive intact, but no guarantees...

I am a "leave it as is" guy myself, but when faced with the fact that there is a very ugly non-fitting piece, which also further damages the value of the original, then a compromise has to be made. There are three options: leave it alone, straighten the warp or remake the base board. Which is the least obvious or problematic?

There is no other way to remove that warp that I am aware of... it will take a hot water bath or steam to do it, especially with oak.

[Phonolair]

I have to go with HMV on this one. You need to get moisture into the cupped or concave side of the board. A wet towel and iron will introduce the heated moisture the most efficiently and directly with out damage to your finished area. This is done over time bending the base back very slowly. In this instance, I would leave the base attached to the case, do your steaming, and than using wood clamps, clamp the base to the case loosely. Than over time ( I'm talking days)tighten your wood clamp a little at a time with repeated steaming until the base is pulled back to the case. If your lucky the original screws will hold it in place. If not you can use larger or longer screws, or repair the original screw holes before you start the whole process. Take your time as you do not want to crack the base or break that glue joint in the middle of your base.

Best Regards, Larry

[TVfuzz]

I have the same issue. My victrola doors are warped the same way. Two have flattened. What I'm doing is, clamping them between mdf board and oak slats. I'll upload pics. So far so good. I've been exposing them to humidity and reclamping every few days. It's working. And these were warped as bad as the drawing.

[HisMastersVoice]

putting a towel over it, and liberally applying steam from an iron, then weighing it down under another board with a huge stack of 78s on top.

Would there be any significant difference between using a towel soaked in very hot water (and partially squeezed out) as opposed to using steam? I would think in either case the heat would rapidly dissipate so the moisture would probably be the most important aspect of the process.

That's a good question, I think steam plays an important part in it. Think about how they make planks for wooden boats, curved cedar shingles, etc. They use steam to bend the wood, so there must be some sort of benefit.

steam box.jpg (51.38 KiB) Viewed 1730 times

[Curt A]

The same principal is used in making oak baskets, Victor wood horns, etc. Oak needs to be steamed or somehow moisturized in order for it to bend. The reason for the warp is probably due to moisture in the first place and if you look at Rene's pic, the grain has that bend pattern in it, so once moisture is re-introduced, the wood goes back to it's normal state. Wood does not come to us normally straight, it has to be cured and straightened in a lengthy drying process. The wood is stacked in huge piles with slats between each board to allow the natural moisture to dry out and leave the board flat.

[TVfuzz]

Here's the kicker... If you're talking about a door or anything that isn't just bare wood, keeping or restoring the finish, you can't steam it. You'll ruin the veneer. It'll get all wavy.
If the steam is too hot, you'll re-amalgamate the finish (I've tried it on the inside of a Victrola door) and end up having to use denatured alcohol to properly re-smooth it (and that ain't as easy as people claim).

Unless you can safely remove the old veneer and reapply after flattening the wood, steaming pieces won't work. Whatever glue Victor used back in the day, it either erodes into powder or stays firm. Maybe warm water or steam- but in my experience the veneer will get wavy and be impossible to clamp/ glue flat again (that experience was not on a Victrola though). I've used that method to take off the remainder of veneer left on broken furniture pieces I've restored.

Also, the veneer protects the structural wood its covering, from the moisture you're trying to apply with a warm towel or steam. Thats why the short, quick way doesn't work. You need to have the humidity absorb "naturally" over a long time to get it back.

Clamps are pretty much the only way I've found to speed things up. Moving the clamped piece in/out of humid areas to dry areas (I use a dehumidifier). It can take months to get the wood to react.

I have a VV-80 whose doors warped so bad they wouldn't shut. Moving to a dry location over winter (ULTRA dry then) brought them into perfect shape after about 3 months.

Takes TIME. Lots and lots of time from what I'm finding.

HUGE CAVEAT to my above advice- I think the major variable lies within HOW QUICKLY the wood warped to begin with.
Last week, I noticed the oak top to my aquarium was warped because I had left the inside glass door open. The wood cover had about a 10degree bow. I flipped it upside-down for a day, and it was near-flat. Closed the aquarium glass top and within about another week it was totally flat again.

So... Mileage varies depending on how it was warped- all other things (wood, veneer, age) being basically equal.

PATIENCE. Just start another project while you wait!
Good luck.