VV-X broken spring

[Matt Kelley]

I'm rebuilding my first motor following the excellent and thorough instructions here:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=epE-r9Dd7qU ,
which, fortunately for me, is the same in every respect I've seen to mine.
Everything is fine except one of the spring is broken as shown below.

What sort of tools are needed to put a new pear-shaped hole a little further up the spring? How do I do this? Or, can I put it back in the spring barrel broken like it is and hope the tension holds it in place? Or should I just buy a new spring?

Thanks for any advice.
Best, Matt Kelley

[Jerry B.]

For all the work you'll do, buy a new spring from Ron Sitko. It will be a quality repair and you'll be happier. My opinion. Jerry Blais

[Johnny Smoke]

Shouldn't both springs be replaced to insure even play? Regards, Johnny

[ambrola]

I'm rebuilding my first motor following the excellent and thorough instructions here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epE-r9Dd7qU ,
which, fortunately for me, is the same in every respect I've seen to mine.
Everything is fine except one of the spring is broken as shown below.

What sort of tools are needed to put a new pear-shaped hole a little further up the spring? How do I do this? Or, can I put it back in the spring barrel broken like it is and hope the tension holds it in place? Or should I just buy a new spring?

Thanks for any advice.
Best, Matt Kelley

I have cut the damaged end off, and used a dremel to make a new hole.

[gramophone78]

I'm rebuilding my first motor following the excellent and thorough instructions here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epE-r9Dd7qU ,
which, fortunately for me, is the same in every respect I've seen to mine.
Everything is fine except one of the spring is broken as shown below.

What sort of tools are needed to put a new pear-shaped hole a little further up the spring? How do I do this? Or, can I put it back in the spring barrel broken like it is and hope the tension holds it in place? Or should I just buy a new spring?

Thanks for any advice.
Best, Matt Kelley

I would recommend buying The Compleat talking Machine by Eric Reiss. In this inexpensive book, there is a great section that shows you how to repair and or replace springs. He goes into full illustrated detail on how to create a new pear shaped hole and re-annealing the end.
A great book that covers many different repair tips.


Based on you pic and "if" there are no other signs of damage.....I would repair this spring.

To make a new pear shaped hole, you cut the end off with tin snips (round off the end). Then the best way is the "punch" the new hole. However, if you don't have the proper tools, you can drill a new hole. Make sure you have a sharp bit. Once the hole is made, you take a rat tail file and shape to a pear. You will then need to use a torch to re-anneal about 2" of the end.

Regarding the comment by johnny smoke....normally it is advisable to replace "all" springs. Having a new spring working in tandem with an old could cause the the old spring to break. Nothing to do with "even play".

However, it is not imperative to do so. Certainly not if the broken spring is repaired.

[Henry]

OR, you can drill two holes, a smaller and a larger, of the appropriate diameters and at the appropriate locations, and use the Dremel tool with a diamond-impregnated cutting wheel (cheap at Horror Fright) to remove the material between the holes: two cuts, one on each side, joining the perimeters of the holes. A simple operation, and quicker than filing! You can then clean up the cuts by filing, as necessary.

[Couch Potato]

I have found it best to heat the end up with the torch prior to drilling hole as can be dificult to drill otherwise. Have fixer many lid the one posted, tin snips, two drill holes, and file to shape. If I didn't own the tools I might buy a new spring.

[EarlH]

You'll have to heat the end up red hot and let it cool on it's own and then you'll be able to drill a new hole for the lug to catch. Then after you get it back in the spring barrel wind it up all the way and leave it set for a few hours or overnight so it will develop a "memory" and it won't unhook and not catch again if you let the machine run down completely. There won't be enough missing with that little bit to make any difference about how long it will play. Take the temper out of 3-4 inches of the spring though so it will wind around the shaft and stay bent around it or it will give you grief if it runs down and then won't re-catch on its own. I had a Victrola that used to do that no matter what I did that that spring and I finally did have to replace it. I have no idea what the problem was with that one.

[gramophone78]

I have found it best to heat the end up with the torch prior to drilling hole as can be dificult to drill otherwise. Have fixer many lid the one posted, tin snips, two drill holes, and file to shape. If I didn't own the tools I might buy a new spring.

I agree two holes are better. The reason I suggested the annealing be done after the new hole is made.....if you look at the pic, the area for the new hole is already annealed steel. Therefore, there is no need to soften the steel more than necessary as it could cause the steel to tear prematurely over time. However, once your new hole is made, you will want at least 2" annealed beyond the hole.

[gramophone78]

You'll have to heat the end up red hot and let it cool on it's own and then you'll be able to drill a new hole for the lug to catch. Then after you get it back in the spring barrel wind it up all the way and leave it set for a few hours or overnight so it will develop a "memory" and it won't unhook and not catch again if you let the machine run down completely. There won't be enough missing with that little bit to make any difference about how long it will play. Take the temper out of 3-4 inches of the spring though so it will wind around the shaft and stay bent around it or it will give you grief if it runs down and then won't re-catch on its own. I had a Victrola that used to do that no matter what I did that that spring and I finally did have to replace it. I have no idea what the problem was with that one.

Earl, I believe you are describing a "inner" end spring repair. You may want to view the pic posted of the spring in question. This is a "outer" end repair.

Funny, most of us have to deal more with the latter. The outer end is a cake walk..... .