Potmetal Parts Re-made

[Mr Grumpy]

I agree with Tino,

The most effective way to reproduce pot metal parts would still be by casting (can be done with silicone molds now).
The 3D printer would be most effective for reproducing the item in plastic a fraction larger to accommodate the shrinkage
that will occur during the casting process.

Pot metal type ingots can still be purchased at model making stores.

[FloridaClay]

Use potmetal to make a replacement part so my memory could also be cursed by a future owners?

Clay

[Mr Grumpy]

LOL! Exactly!

I'm hoping the materials used now are a tad more stable. It's not like you'd be melting down old soundboxes
to create new ones.

I guess it just depends on how realistic you need your reproduction parts to be.

[FloridaClay]

LOL! Exactly!

I'm hoping the materials used now are a tad more stable. It's not like you'd be melting down old soundboxes
to create new ones.

I guess it just depends on how realistic you need your reproduction parts to be.

I was thinking maybe aluminum might be close enough in appearance for the non-plated parts. For plated parts, I'm not sure how well aluminum would take gold or nickel plating though.

Clay

[Mr Grumpy]

The process for casting aluminum is far more complicated as it has a higher melting point and requires
molds that can withstand the heat (sand/ceramic).

I was thinking of the metal ingots here --> http://www.sculpturesupply.com/detail.p ... +Materials
I guess they classify it as Pewter as it may be the main ingredient, but I'd guess it is a mixture
of alloys similar to pot metal. It can be melted in your workshop with a propane torch and
cast into Silicon molds.

They indicate it will cure with slight expansion.

[52089]

It's not like you'd be melting down old soundboxes
to create new ones.

That's kind of like the old joke about running a sausage factory backwards to manufacture pigs!

[JerryVan]

LOL! Exactly!

I'm hoping the materials used now are a tad more stable. It's not like you'd be melting down old soundboxes
to create new ones.

I guess it just depends on how realistic you need your reproduction parts to be.

Today's "pot metal" alloys ARE more stable. The problem with the old stuff is that when the technology was first used, it was discovered that the addition of lead to the mix would improve quality of the casting. What was not known, was that lead would react with the other constituents and cause what's referred to as intergranular corrosion. It just took lots of time to rear its ugly head. Pot metal parts that survived well had less, or little, lead added. Todays alloys are usually guaranteed lead free.

[JerryVan]

Also, parts such as fiber gears as found on Berliners and early Victor's, etc..... could be made with ease.

Someone should be all over this.

Thoughts....????.

Fiber gears can be made with ease in the traditional way too. You just have to have the resource to do so. It would probably be best to make new fiber gears out of Delrin, since the old red fiber is no longer available.

[Curt A]

My thoughts would be to use water jet technology to re-manufacture potmetal parts from billet aluminum. There is a NASCAR race park near here where there are many suppliers to the race industry. One in particular makes custom billet aluminum parts for engines, fittings, wheels, etc. and can be anodized to any color including gold. Custom wheels are not cast, but rather cut with a water jet to whatever design or dimensions are desired, so this technology is already being used widely. Also, laser CNC machines can be used to cut flat steel parts accurately, instead of stamping them out as in the good old days...

[tinovanderzwan]

tino[/quote]

Just one comment regarding "fiber" gears. These fiber gears were made to reduce motor noise and are able to withstand the tension. Therefore, I can't see how a fiber gear could be any stronger to a resin or ?? gear made by 3D laser printing.

well fiber gears are as the word implies fibrous its not a homogeneous material like laser print resin it is tuff and resistant to pressure not hard and brittle
also i think the oils used in phonographs would eat away the resin since some oils are slightly acidic some 3d resins can even be affected by your finger prints also laser prints hate uv light it shrinks and falls to pieces after some years its not like your average 2 part moulding resin this stuff is in a leage of its own and its still very much in the toddler stage of development

as to the jay leno vid this was about casting and making a template to do so

question : have any of you have any first hand experience with 3d printing?? if so have you ever used it to reproduce phono parts?

a good friend of mine has a lase printer and one night we experimented in printing a Pathé reproducer for the cylinder Pathé's
scanning and printing worked fine i only had to drill a hole into the reproducer shaft so sound could pas trough
it lacked good detail like the lettering and the Pathé logo it kinda came out gobeltygoob but after the mica was installed it worked fine on my Pathé chante clair
after some time(some years) the reproducer started to warp and the surfage started to break up eventualy it broke into several big chunks
the bad guy in this was uv light
so making parts using laser resin... maybe in the future but certainly not today!

making a Pathé reproducer of 3d print plastic filament it kind of works but its a very solid object thus prone to shrinking and warping when its cooling down this is a big recurring problem when printing solid blobs of plastic it simply cools down unevenly this is also a printing hazzard since the warped object can come loose from the printing bed and bumb against the important parts of the 3d printer
now a object like a reproducer can take 3 to 4 hours to complete so you are not going to be there watching it all of the time more likely your watching tv and having a beer or three in the mean time a blob of plastic is destroying your filament holder

so again probably in the future not now

tino


3d fails!

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