Brooks repeating phonograph and muggy weld repairs

[johnwilla]

I bought a Brooks automatic repeating phonograph which has significant potmetal problems including a break where the tonearm fits onto the motorboard and lots of crazing all over its surface. George Vollema is doubtful about replacements and although much broken, the parts are all there, which brings me to my question about repair/restoration and muggy weld. Having looked at the videos on the Muggy Weld webpage I think it might be a way to bring the parts back to playing condition. I would like to hear from anybody who has used this product, and what you think about its possibilities for a project of this sort.
Thanks in advance--

[Curt A]

Muggyweld looks promising, although I have never used it. There is also a product called TIX solder that melts at low temps and is high strength. The video looks convincing, but my experience with phonograph potmetal is that it turns into a puddle of solder-like material when heated with a torch. I tried heat on a repair on a Fairy Phonograph Lamp arm elbow and it did not work... JB Weld works for sure - either the two part tubes (red & black - takes 24 hrs to cure) or the putty sticks.

I would experiment with some other expendable parts, since I am not sure that modern potmetal (as used in auto parts) is the same composition as old phonograph potmetal and is not like diecast metal. I think this material has a lot of potential uses for brass repair and would be great if it works on phonograph potmetal. I may order some of this to experiment with and post results, if I do. If you do, please post any results that you might have...

http://www.muggyweld.com/

[johnwilla]

Thanks for the quick reply, and for articulating some things I had not thought about. My objection to jbweld is that it is such a visible repair.

[Curt A]

Thanks for the quick reply, and for articulating some things I had not thought about. My objection to jbweld is that it is such a visible repair.

JB Weld can be a visible repair, but that depends entirely on what and where you are repairing. If you are putting pieces back together, it can be great... before it cures, wipe any excess off with alcohol and it becomes less noticeable. Also, after it cures, you can use a metallic touch up called Rub and Buff or something similar. You apply it with a finger and rub it over the repair - it comes in a variety of metallic colors to match nickel plating or gold.