Reproducer rebuild questions

[GrafonolaG50]

I plan on rebuilding the reproducer on my Victrola VV-IV. Is the original mica diaphragm reusable and if so would i have to do anything special to reuse it. Also to what length should the gaskets be cut? More questions will be asked when I start the rebuild process.
Thank you in advance,
Grafonola G50

[Jerry B.]

The gaskets should be close to being tight. You do not want any air gap. The ends need to meet and inside gasket and outside gasket should be 180 degrees apart. An undamaged diaphragm is fine to reuse. Jerry Blais

[Victrolacollector]

Just a reminder to make sure you put some beeswax on their and seal the needle bar to the diaphragm.

All the best,

Jerry

[GrafonolaG50]

These gaskets will be on an exhibition reproducer, how long does the tubing need to be cut to?

[Curt A]

First thing - DO NOT PRE-CUT THE GASKET MATERIAL.

Place the gasket tubing into the reproducer so it fits well into the bottom, then overlap the tubing at the ends slightly - maybe ⅛" or so - then cut it squarely. To get it to fit properly, it needs to be slightly "forced" until both ends line up squarely and this will put a slight pressure on the gasket to keep it tightly in place, if this makes sense. Then place the mica, with the needle bar attached to it, on top of the bottom gasket. Repeat the gasket fitting as on the bottom, but align the seams so they are 180 degrees opposite each other to prevent air leakage. To make it look right, the bottom gasket seam should be at the top of the reproducer and the top gasket seam should be at the bottom, behind the needle bar...

If the mica is damaged - cracked, broken, etc. then replace it. If it is just flaking a little, you can peel off a layer by using your finger nail or a razor blade on the edge of the mica. Mica is made up of thin layers, so you can refresh the top of the mica using this method - or flip it to whichever side looks best from the outside. And make sure to seal the screw hole for the needle bar with wax.

If you take out the tiny screw from the center of the mica which attaches the needle bar, you may have trouble putting it back in the needle bar. A pair of forceps clamped to the screw helps in getting it started... or if you don't have those, put the screw in the hole and tape it in place with scotch tape. This will hold it in place while you spin the mica to get the screw started. Hope this helps...

[GrafonolaG50]

Thank you for the information, I just ordered the gasket material and wax from Amazon today, it should be rebuilt by the end of the month.

[Curt A]

To get the wax exactly in the middle of the mica, hold a small nail or brad with a pair of pliers or vice grips. Heat the nail and place it directly in contact with the end of the needle bar and touch the wax to the nail, it will run straight down to the center.

[ejackett]

If you get on EBay and order the parts from Walt Sommers (cyber-tiger) he also
sends a complete set of instructions on how to rebuild the reproducer. His
prices for parts are very reasonable, and he has all the parts you will need
to rebuild a No.2 or Exhibition reproducer. His instructions are very easy to
follow and understand. Hope this helps...his EBay store is "Gettysburg Antique
Phonographs"
Gene

[VintageTechnologies]

I just rebuilt an Exhibition reproducer this weekend and noticed that some of my procedures are slightly different from Curt's. As they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat. As Curt said, you can reuse the mica if it is not damaged.

Someone before me had done a hack repair and sealed the needle bar to the mica on both sides with white Elmer's glue! I wanted to salvage the diaphragm and so I used 5% white vinegar on "Q" tips to SLOWLY dissolve the glue, bit by bit. Daub and wipe, ad nauseum, on both sides of the diaphragm. I removed the rubber flange to improve access to the tiny screw that fastens the needle bar to the mica. At last, I was able to remove enough glue to remove the tiny screw. I finished disassembling the reproducer completely.

The balance springs were damaged, so I installed a fresh pair and screwed them down equally just enough to keep the needle bar firmly in place. Then I tightened one of the screws just enough to back the needle bar away from the diaphragm when it was to be reinstalled.

I agree with Curt that you should not pre-cut the rubber tubing; it usually has a curl which makes it tedious to lay out on a ruler. Instead, I use the curl to my advantage and lay the uncut tubing inside the reproducer frame and mark the tubing with a pen to allow a ⅛" overlap. Then I cut the tubing with sharp scissors for a clean square cut. It takes very little effort to compress the tubing enough to make the ends butt end-to-end with a nearly invisible joint. I cut both gaskets that way.

After laying down the first gasket, I set the diaphragm in place on top of it and noticed the hole in the needle bar and mica did not align. I then discovered the hole in the mica was slightly off-center and so I rotated the mica until the holes aligned. Simple!

I laid down the next gasket, then the metal reproducer flange, and screwed the body back together. At this time, there was a small gap between the needle bar and mica; I used that to advantage: I used tweezers to drop the tiny screw through the mica and the screw aligned with the hole in the needle bar. I used a jeweller's screwdriver to get the screw started. Then I carefully readjusted the balance springs to close the gap until the needle bar just barely touched the mica. I used a loupe to observe closing the gap. Then I finished tightening the tiny screw behind the mica. Neither of the balance screws should be tightened any more than to necessary to firmly hold the needle bar atop the knife edge. Over-tightening will reduce volume and bass response.

Add wax on both sides to seal the needle bar and mica. Reattach the rubber flange and you are done. The Exhibition is really one of the easiest reproducers to rebuild.

[Curt A]

I wouldn't say "different", you just addressed a few additional adjustments and possible problems - all good things to know.