Ok I replace the damn bearing but had a hell of a time getting the pulley of the mandrel shaft. In trying to separate it I use a technique that one of our members posted using a block of wood to tap it out basically using the stanchion as a stop . Thought sure as hell I was going to break it..
Well in doing so I also loosened up the mandrel on the shaft.
What is the trick to lock it in place again?? I saw somewhere that you can solder it but where?? I just want to make a nice job of it once and for all.
Any help would be appreciated.
blizz
attaching mandrel to the shaft on Edison Standard
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Re: attaching mandrel to the shaft on Edison Standard
I did the exact same thing on my Home D. I just glued it back on after I asked on the forum. I think George told me how?
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Re: attaching mandrel to the shaft on Edison Standard
do you just use some 5 min epoxy at each end where it goes through the endcaps??
blizz
blizz
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Re: attaching mandrel to the shaft on Edison Standard
still looking for any help on how to secure the shaft to the end caps on a mandrel.
The thing just spins on me and is sloppy.. Any suggestion?
blizz
The thing just spins on me and is sloppy.. Any suggestion?
blizz
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Re: attaching mandrel to the shaft on Edison Standard
Not having heard from anyone else, I'd say that if
I was in that situation, I'd be taking a real close
look at warming up the 300 watt soldering iron and trying
to decide how to get a little bit of solder on there
so it will hold without making it look like a mess.
One thing I can say about soldering is that the metal
parts must be bright and shiny with no dirt or
corrosion on them. A little extra flux helps too.
Have you considered a drop or two of superglue?
That may well do the trick and it would maybe wick
its way in there and not make a mess and be nearly
invisible unless one knows it's there and looks for it.
Good luck and please do post the results of whatever
you come up with.
By the way, where did you get the bearing, and how is
the final fit of the shaft within it? In other words
yes it has to turn freely, but how much slop is there?
I've seen a very overly sloppy fit on one machine
in particular which quite obviously has a replacement
bearing, and it's way too sloppy. The end of the mandrel
can be wiggled around up/down/sideways all over the
place it's just horrible. So, how did the fit turn
out on yours?
My own personal thought about this
is that in order to get a really proper fit, these
bearings might need to be furnished a bit undersized
so that the installer can then use an adjustable
reamer and ream it up to size so that it's not
several thousandths over when the job is done.
Any comments on that?
Chuck
I was in that situation, I'd be taking a real close
look at warming up the 300 watt soldering iron and trying
to decide how to get a little bit of solder on there
so it will hold without making it look like a mess.
One thing I can say about soldering is that the metal
parts must be bright and shiny with no dirt or
corrosion on them. A little extra flux helps too.
Have you considered a drop or two of superglue?
That may well do the trick and it would maybe wick
its way in there and not make a mess and be nearly
invisible unless one knows it's there and looks for it.
Good luck and please do post the results of whatever
you come up with.
By the way, where did you get the bearing, and how is
the final fit of the shaft within it? In other words
yes it has to turn freely, but how much slop is there?
I've seen a very overly sloppy fit on one machine
in particular which quite obviously has a replacement
bearing, and it's way too sloppy. The end of the mandrel
can be wiggled around up/down/sideways all over the
place it's just horrible. So, how did the fit turn
out on yours?
My own personal thought about this
is that in order to get a really proper fit, these
bearings might need to be furnished a bit undersized
so that the installer can then use an adjustable
reamer and ream it up to size so that it's not
several thousandths over when the job is done.
Any comments on that?
Chuck
"Sustained success depends on searching
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
- fmblizz
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Re: attaching mandrel to the shaft on Edison Standard
Thanks Chuck, going the Super Glue route first.
Blizz
Blizz
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Re: attaching mandrel to the shaft on Edison Standard
Super glue most likely will not sufficiently get into the space between the shaft and the mandrel. You can try Loctite 290, (do a Google search), which will wick into the void and will be far stronger than super glue.
Really though, just applying some heat to either end should reflow the original solder and reestablish the joint.
Really though, just applying some heat to either end should reflow the original solder and reestablish the joint.
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Re: attaching mandrel to the shaft on Edison Standard
Thanks Jerry I'll give that a try.. Never new they were soldered on in the first place.
Gary
Gary
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Re: attaching mandrel to the shaft on Edison Standard
Gary,
I used 2 part epoxy. It will not come off.
I used 2 part epoxy. It will not come off.