Horns.. all brass or any copper?

[JerryVan]

I can tell you from experience in the antique car hobby that you're way beyond the polishing stage and into the sanding stage. Polish will not remove the heavy oxidation. Sand the bell down with 400 grit wet-or-dry paper to remove the heavy oxidation. Then, work up to 600 grit, then 800, then 1200. When you get that far, you're ready for polish. Before you change to the higher grit, be sure you've removed the sanding marks left by the previous grit. Yes, it's a ton of work. There are no miracle potions. When you're done, you may still see pitting left by the heavy oxidation.

If I go the sanding route, will the 1200 grit sanding marks be polished out doing this by hand? I don't have a buffer?
I will first attempt brasso tomorrow.. then see where I am in regards to the next step... sanding

A buffer would be the best way. You could buy an inexpensive buffing attachment for an electric drill that would probably work okay.

[Lucius1958]

I agree with you David on Rene's machine. I think that is the best looking horn I have ever seen. Your horn is stunning also. What is in the middle of it or is it an aloptical illusion?

As it's a 'reflex' horn, that is the narrow end which comes up through the panels, and points back to reflect the sound out of the large end.

It was done (I presume) to save space, so that you could fit a larger horn on a machine without impeding access to the turntable, or needing to support it with an extra crane.

Bill

[Roaring20s]

I agree with you David on Rene's machine. I think that is the best looking horn I have ever seen. Your horn is stunning also. What is in the middle of it or is it an aloptical illusion?

As it's a 'reflex' horn, that is the narrow end which comes up through the panels, and points back to reflect the sound out of the large end.
It was done (I presume) to save space, so that you could fit a larger horn on a machine without impeding access to the turntable, or needing to support it with an extra crane.
Bill

Great explanation, Bill.
Here's a picture of that concept...

Screen Shot 2015-12-27 at 10.37.55 PM.png (328.6 KiB) Viewed 725 times

James.

[drboruff]

Thanks guys for the very good explanation and diagram of the reflex horn. Attached are a few more pics of the horn to compliment the description. I will also add that the balanced weight and design of the horn allows it to rotate 360 degrees on the back bracket.
David

[gramophone78]

David, what a great looking horn. From what I have read, it appears this short lived horn was not very popular in the day.The fact they are far less intrusive to a standard horn would make one think they would have been just the opposite.
However, now I'm sure everyone of us would love to have one in their collection...I know I sure would... .

Thanks so much for sharing.

[phonogfp]

Mr. Paul's co-authored book Antique Phonographs Accessories & Contraptions refers to the Echo-Tone horn as "One of the least successful, shortest-lived, and most ugly horns every marketed..." .
David

That doesn't mean I don't want one!

Your copper and brass example is a real sweetheart.

George P.

[US PHONO]

I can tell you from experience in the antique car hobby that you're way beyond the polishing stage and into the sanding stage. Polish will not remove the heavy oxidation. Sand the bell down with 400 grit wet-or-dry paper to remove the heavy oxidation. Then, work up to 600 grit, then 800, then 1200. When you get that far, you're ready for polish. Before you change to the higher grit, be sure you've removed the sanding marks left by the previous grit. Yes, it's a ton of work. There are no miracle potions. When you're done, you may still see pitting left by the heavy oxidation.

The result of sanding ....

Brass horns are quite thin so I would recommend a good polish liquid, a fairly fine wire wool, and the risk of Arthritis to your elbow. If you sand you may remove too much good material and land up with this
http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... =9&t=24366