Deep cleaning Diamond discs

[Tpapp54321]

I recently have come into a large sum of diamond discs but some of them are absolutely filthy. So filthy that alcohol and cotton isnt cleaning them well enough. I've even tried scrubbing with a toothbrush but the alcohol isn't enough to loosen the dirt and mold that's caked on the surface. When I play a record the splotchy grey surface reverts to black, but it can't be good for the record to have all that muck ground into the grooves. So, are there any stronger methods for cleaning Diamond discs? The only thing I could possibly think of is maybe trying goop? Would it be safe to use?
-Tom

[PeterF]

Please stick with cotton and alcohol and lots of elbow grease.

The only other thing that might be harmless - repeat, might be - would be to use a lateral adapter equipped with bamboo (fiber) or thorn type needles. You'd "play" the records with it repeatedly, wiping the fiber needle clean after each pass.

This is the same action as playing through it with the regular Edison diamond reproducer, but lessens the risk of diamond or record damage if the residue is too hard to just plow through.

When I clean mine I use the flat cotton cosmetic-removal pads, available at any drugstore, and the highest available strength rubbing alcohol. It's convenient to do this on a granite kitchen counter, if you have one, because it's flat and stable and impervious to the alcohol if it spills. I just lay the disc on the clean counter and rub the wet pad in circular motion with the grooves. Flip the wet disc over onto a paper towel and repeat for the other side.

[winsleydale]

I have had good luck with Windex, so you might try that. It doesn't seem to hurt the discs at all, I think it's waterless.

[PeterF]

Well, 30 seconds later we can easily find this to be untrue, from wikipedia:

In 2015 the S.C.Johnson website lists the ingredients as Water, 2-Hexoxyethanol, Isopropanolamine, Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate, Lauramine Oxide, Ammonium Hydroxide, Fragrance, and Liquitint® Sky Blue Dye


So not wise to use, for the water alone. Looks like the other stuff is alcohol, a solvent, a couple of surfactants, and ammonia. Lord knows what they might do to ancient proto-plastics, so let's stay with the factory-advised alcohol if we can.

[winsleydale]

Oh.

Regardless, I have used it to great effect, and with no detriment to the discs. Perhaps it is because I don't clean the edges? I don't know.

[PeterF]

Edges and center hole are the usual spots where moisture can get in, when the playing surface is not cracked. We have no way to know what the long-term effects from the chemicals may be, as well.

I remember avidly cleaning my very first stack of shellac 78s, a "welcome to the hobby" gift from a prominent collector years ago, with water and added photo-flow surfactant - just like for vinyl LPs. Wow they sure cleaned up nice.

And within a week they were almost unplayable from the surface issues the water had introduced. I ruined some pretty good stuff.

[winsleydale]

I can't speak to anything down on the chemical and molecular level. I don't know enough about phenolic, or about the stuff in the Windex. All I know is that discs that I Windex'd a few years ago, are still fine. As a personal decision, I will continue to use it. I put up a recommendation based on experiences, not on chemical data, so take it how you will.

[OrthoSean]

Original formula Windex, not store brands or anything else works fine for cleaning DDs. I've cleaned literally thousands of them that way without an issue. It was recommended to me years ago by Ron Dethlefson and it works. The usual don't get the edges or labels wet near the spindle hold (or paper labels wet at all) rules apply. I use old cotton washcloths that I spray the Windex directly on and then clean the disc, followed by a good dry with an old (but clean, of course) cotton towel. I then let them air dry for a few hours in a plastic dish rack before sleeving. Ones with mold or mildew spots may need repeated applications and scrubs. I keep Disc Doctor cleaner on hand and his special brushes also for really tough cases, but that stuff is more expensive than most want to spend...

Sean

[Wolfe]

Edges and center hole are the usual spots where moisture can get in, when the playing surface is not cracked. We have no way to know what the long-term effects from the chemicals may be, as well.

I remember avidly cleaning my very first stack of shellac 78s, a "welcome to the hobby" gift from a prominent collector years ago, with water and added photo-flow surfactant - just like for vinyl LPs. Wow they sure cleaned up nice.

And within a week they were almost unplayable from the surface issues the water had introduced. I ruined some pretty good stuff.

Quite a few years ago I ruined several 78's using excess photo-flo. First time I tried it. It left permanent dull grey splotches on the record with attendant noise. Use in very small quantities doesn't cause any outward harm. But I quit using it on 78's.

[FloridaClay]

Edges and center hole are the usual spots where moisture can get in, when the playing surface is not cracked. We have no way to know what the long-term effects from the chemicals may be, as well.

I remember avidly cleaning my very first stack of shellac 78s, a "welcome to the hobby" gift from a prominent collector years ago, with water and added photo-flow surfactant - just like for vinyl LPs. Wow they sure cleaned up nice.

And within a week they were almost unplayable from the surface issues the water had introduced. I ruined some pretty good stuff.

Quite a few years ago I ruined several 78's using excess photo-flo. First time I tried it. It left permanent dull grey splotches on the record with attendant noise. Use in very small quantities doesn't cause any outward harm. But I quit using it on 78's.

Peter, I'd tend to agree that the culprit on you 78s was the Photo-Flo, not the water. I clean 78 with water and a good dish detergent like Joy, as many people do. Of course you would not do this with DDs as they have a core material that swells when wet.

Clay