How to free frozen Exhibition screws

[Nick Charles]

I'm rebuilding an Exhibition reproducer, but have run into a problem with the three screws on the head. They are frozen and will not budge. I've tried PB Blaster after heating the screws. I've tried Liquid Wrench penetrating oil. I've tried heating and cooling them, all to no available. They will not unscrew. Has anyone encountered such stubborn little beggars and have an answer that might free them for extraction?

[Dave D]

Are they rusted? If so, soak it a day or so in Evaoprust. I buy it at the local auto parts store and it is amazing. You will be able to just back them right out.

I find that 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid is a better penetrating oil than anything you can buy.
Dave D

[Nick Charles]

No, there is no rust present. I've heating them with a soldering iron, tried the above-mentioned and let them cool to no effect. I've never encountered such difficult ones before!!

[Henry]

I've heard that putting the sound box in the freezer for awhile (perhaps overnight) will cause the steel screws to contract relative to the brass (?) back, after which the screws might be loosened enough to move. Worth a try, IMO.

[Nick Charles]

I tried the freezer and that didn't work either. Thanks for the tips one and all.

[alang]

What I found was that a very good screwdriver that fits exactly is essential to getting these screws out if they are stuck. Most screwdrivers have a tapered tip, which is not what you need. You need a screwdriver with a tip that is all right angles, so it completely filles out the slot in the screw head more more torque.

I have also used the freezer method leaving a reproducer in there for days, then heat the screw with a soldering iron, when still stuck, back into the freezer and try again after a few days. It is frustrating and takes patience, but beats what you need to do when you mess up the screw head. If a screw head is already messed up you can try a tiny screw extractor, but most likely will have to drill out the screw head. Then you can get the back plate off and grad the little remaining piece of the screw that sticks out with locking pliers and get it out. Very like this method will leave scars on the back plate, so please use that only as a last resort.

Good luck
Andreas

[JerryVan]

Are they rusted? If so, soak it a day or so in Evaoprust. I buy it at the local auto parts store and it is amazing. You will be able to just back them right out.

I find that 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid is a better penetrating oil than anything you can buy.
Dave D

I agree with Dave:

"I find that 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid is a better penetrating oil than anything you can buy."

Try it! Maybe you'll like it.

[gramophone-georg]

Are they rusted? If so, soak it a day or so in Evaoprust. I buy it at the local auto parts store and it is amazing. You will be able to just back them right out.

I find that 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid is a better penetrating oil than anything you can buy.
Dave D

There is something better... Kano Sili Kroil. It's expensive, though. I have an auto restoration biz so I am able to buy it by the gallon directly from Kano. I've never been able to NOT get a fastener loose with this stuff. Soak it and let it sit overnight. It's super thin and creeps, and gets in everyplace. It has silicone to lube as it penetrates.

I was even able to free up stuck piston rings on a Mercedes 220SEb engine without disassembly with this stuff. I clean old gunked up springs in their barrels with it too.

[Henry]

Agree on the Kroil. Fellows I know use it when restoring old trolley cars. I can also recommend CRC-556, also known as "Power Lube," which is carried by Ace Hardware stores in my area of e. PA. This stuff penetrates and lubricates wherever you apply it; should be easier to find at retail, unlike Kroil, which I've not seen on the shelves where I shop.

[De Soto Frank]

Kroil is usually a direct sell from Kano Labs, and is worth it.