Rebuilding Orthophonic (portable) reproducer - advice needed

[AllWoundUp]

Easiest way to identify brass vs pot metal is the brass ones have seven "teardrop" shaped holes and the pot metals have nine.

mark

[OrthoFan]

Does anyone have some photos they can post showing a brass orthophonic reproducer? I have never seen one and would like to know the differences other than the brass vs pot metal. It is my understanding that the brass ones came on the first four Orthophonic machines that were introduced. Is that correct? Thank you.
Steve

Edit: I may have somewhat answered my own question by searching on google for "Brass Orthophonic" where I found...

In addition to the seven openings, mentioned above, the "square portion" covering the needle-bar pivot area, is attached to the shell, and not part of casing, itself, as it was with the pot metal sound boxes. Normally, it's painted black, even on the gold plated sound boxes.

I though someone had posted some detailed photos, on this site, of the brass Orthophonic sound box, but I wasn't able to find them.

OF

[Steve Stephens]

Thanks guys. I'm knowledgeable enough now and will hit the flea market this weekend looking for brass. Think I can find a two or three? I bet it would take years of looking to find just one.

I have not owned an Orthophonic phonograph yet but am kind of fond of the little Consolette which, I think, would have had the brass reproducer on it. Extra room to put even medium sized machines is at a premium in my house these days and I have only four phonos so the question arises "where does a new machine fit in?" Normally I "should" have room but the 200+ old fans and 30 or so 20s radios have spoken for each spot.

[OrthoFan]

I have not owned an Orthophonic phonograph yet but am kind of fond of the little Consolette which, I think, would have had the brass reproducer on it.

Hi Steve:

Actually, only the very early Consolettes (4-3s) came with the brass sound boxes. Unfortunately, they were also fitted with smaller (10") turntables, single spring motors, and they had no grille.

If I had to choose between an early or later style Consolette, I'd probably opt for later. It offers a double spring motor, 12" turntable, automatic brake, and a grille. In fact, the one I had was from about mid-1926, and even though the sound box was pot metal, it was in excellent condition, with no cracking or swelling.

BTW, another option, if space is a problem, is the 4-7. Unlike the Consolette which used the non-folded exponential horn, the 4-7 has a longer folded horn, and, therefore, pumps out more of a low-end response. It's about the same size, and similar in appearance to the Consolette -- SEE: http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... f=2&t=3360

OF

[AllWoundUp]

couchpotato,

Here's some more pics showing my ortho apart, showing the back sides and the order in which it goes together.

I used a minila folder for the gaskets, 2 layers on each side. Eventually will shellac them in but haven't yet.

To align the needle bar so the needle is straight, I waited until it was all together to solder it, adjusted the limit screw so that when pressing down on the needle it was perfectly straight. Then soldered needle bar into spider while holding it against the screw and then backed out the limit screw.

All the bits

Diaphragm with spider epoxied in place

Empty shell

First gasket in place

Diaphragm in place, centered, with end of needle bar in hole in spider

Second gasket in place

Drop the back plate in. Notch (at top of pic) lines up with hole in shell. My other one has a pin here but this one doesn't.

Screw in the ring, while keeping the back plate from turning due to missing pin

[couchpotato]

Okay many orthophonic reproducers have tear drop shaped bearing covers. These have a small raised ring on them. My question is which side faces the bearings and which side faces the outside world. I have 5 such reproducers but when I bought them some times that raised ring is facing outward and other times inwards on the bearings, so no way for me to tell which is correct. Would love to know which side of these covers should press against the bearings.

Also that bearing ring I see in the pictures. This goes on after the bearings are put in place I take it? Are those only used on the ones that have the dust cover (and apparently not the tear drop shaped covers)?

[1926CredenzaOwner]

!

[Zvorsky1]

Need help..
Can just the sound of a record hurt the pot metal in the reproducer?!
Have a vv 2-55 sounded great till 1 record with some high picthed violin ..and then the sound got bad?!
It is a 9 teardrop reproducer...I hope it is just gasket issues?!

Thanks

Zvorsky
(Can't seam to find this post..when I login..please send email to [email protected])

[frenchmarky]

When I remove and polish up the bearing rings, I like to flip them around when reinstalling, since the balls tend to wear divots into them and I would rather the balls now roll on the opposite, fresh side. However the rings do seem to have each end beveled differently. Didn't affect the outcome though, as long as the rings were positioned correctly to that the balls couldn't fall out thru the needlebar end.
I like to use that really thin packing foam for the gaskets in my Orthos, cut out carefully with scissors (I only use it on the 'neck' side of the diaphragm.) I don't have to worry about really cranking down hard on the locking ring, seals airtight before the ring is even tightened down fully.

[Victrolaman]

The little screw that's set about the needle bar is it supposed to be touching or not?
Someone told me that's it's not, if it is it dampens the sound, is this corect?
On mine it's just above it nit touching, how far away from the needle bar should it be?