Determining original Victrola cabinet shade?

[frenchmarky]

I'm stripping a Credenza that I *think* had been refinished in a lighter color, and it has some bad stains on the lid too. However I'm still not 100% sure I even know what color it was supposed to be originally. Can I use the original finish color on the 'inside' areas, like the underside of the lid and the back sides of the doors to determine the exact color it WAS? Or could these areas have been normally made a darker shade at the factory just for contrast?
I'm planning on doing it in a mahogany stain and then a fresh coat of finish. Right now that is what those inner areas look like, but the rest of the cabinet is much lighter walnut-y shade. Plus it just doesn't seem like the original coating to me, real thin and kinda gritty, whereas those dark inner areas are original, very nice, shiny, even finish. Am I safe in assuming the entire cabinet used to be this darker color?

Also I thought I read somewhere that the Orthophonic cabinets were done in a satin type finish. Is this correct or should I use semi-gloss or gloss instead?

Thanks!
Mark French

[larryh]

I have seen three types of Credenza finishes. One was a nice medium darkness walnut, one was a rather dark mahogany, and the third was a oak finish. The walnut credenza I owned was walnut inside as well as out. The finish I would say was semi gloss at the most, more like a well polished wax finish kind of look.

Now that I think about it I have some photos still of it here in the computer, I will add.

[Jerry B.]

If the inside under the lid is undisturbed and original, that's what you want to match.

[Henry]

Also look at the inner surfaces of the doors. On my XI, these look to be just as smooth and shiny as the day they left Camden.

[frenchmarky]

Thanks guys, I'll see if the mahogany stain will match the inner lid and door backs, the inner lid is in great shape with the original decal. I'm glad whoever redid this thing didn't decide to try to redo those in the light color too, bleh! Also I'll test the satin finish first to see exactly how it will look. Just finished applying the stripper and the initial finish removal, sanding next. Here are pics of the stripped top and the original finish on the underside, can anybody identify what kind of wood this is supposed to be?
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The previous refinish has really had it, can tell by how the stripper is hitting varnish in some spots and practically none in others, really worn out or a sloppy job in the first place.
Mark

[frenchmarky]

The 'dark mahogany' stain I am using is working out great, I love the way this mahogany wood just soaks up the stain so evenly and completely. For all the trouble it is to do a good refinish, I'm making sure I strip and sand down every square inch of this cabinet and it's paying off. It's not quite as dark as the existing color under the lid but I'm chalking that up to 80 years of aging, and what I'm ending up with is plenty dark enough for me, you can still see all the beautiful graining in the wood. I'll post pics of the machine after I get the satin finish on it and put it back together. I've already done the cleaning and adjusting of the motor and tonearm/soundbox. Thanks for the tips!

Also, that "Dog" book says all Orthophonics were done in a satin lacquer. Should I use lacquer (if it's even available in So Calif.?), or am I ok going with the can of water-borne satin acrylic I bought? If lacquer is a lot more desireable, is it easier to use than the new stuff? I hope I'm not going to have any weird problems applying this water-based product to the oil-based stain that I've applied. Thanks!

Mark