Brunswick Ultona Reproducer Question..

[SignatureSeriesOwner]

I'm looking at buying a Brunswick Ultona reproducer. All the parts are there, but its not in the best shape. (Likely very dirty)




It appears to all be there, but my question is, how much could I expect to pay for it?

Also, how do I insert a needle for Victor (and so on) records? I do not see a thumbscrew to tighten the needle in place.

And, how would one go about rebuilding the soundbox?


Thanks guys!

[Brad]

SSO,

These reproducers and tone arms are prone to problems. Pieces are made of pot metal and we know what that entails. Two main problems that occur are:
-The reproducer head becomes siezed to the tone arm and will not rotate - renders the vertical playback useless (or horizontal) depending on the position it is stuck in.
-The tone arm pivots in the center. Sometimes the pivot point breaks which came render it useless.

Standard needles are held in with a typical thumb screw. If it is missing, a replacement can be found.

As to cost, you can pay a lot for a very clean working one to a little for a useless one.

As to rebuilding, there are metal rings around the mica held in place with 4 screws. One would think "great, this should be easy". Not always so. The ring is made from pot metal and if it and/or the repro head has swollen, it will be lodged in there and if you try and pry it out, it will break. I have been thinking of ways to avoid this but haven't had time to experiment.

My advice is to check the tone arm over before you buy to make sure it is not seized and that the mica/gaskets are in good order that you could live with them if the rings are stuck. You will also want to check the diamond if it is so equipped.

[antique1973]

This is very similar to one I bought on Ebay. I paid too much at first
but negotiated a partial refund since it was broken in 2. Ended up getting
mine for $12. Brad's right, the whole thing is potmetal and will crumble in your hand with any amount of force. I have had some pretty good luck with repairing the
broken tone arm with JB WELD. If you get a good bond, it seems to hold up
well enough for general use as long as you don't drop it or bend it excessively
of course. As far as the retaining ring on mine, I was lucky and was able to
remove it in one piece. I soaked it with liquid wrench thoroughly and let it sit
for 24 hours. After that I (gently!) used a small screwdriver to pop out the ring.
Mine is supposed to turn to use a Pathé needle but its totally frozen and I am
not going to push the issue. This is the best way to destroy it. I am happy with
having a functional Brunswick tonearm to play 78s should I come across a
machine that is missing one. If you can hold out you may check Ebay as they come
up often in various conditions. Good luck!

[dennman6]

I have a possibly "blasphemous" question regarding these big, clunky Ultona reproducers. I never liked the concept of these, & was wondering if an older style of Brunswick tonearm & reproducer could be fitted onto the models using the Ultona. I have seen some beautiful Brunswicks, sweet running motors. A nice looking basic model is the 110-possibly an equivalent to A VV-X or VV-XI. Was the Ultona a standard item on the more expensive machines or was it an option that could be added, like electric motors for the Victors? Also, after the introduction of the Ultona were their basic models that had a more standard type of reproducer/tonearm combo? I have a little Panatrope 106 with the "Orthophonic"-style reproducer which I had rebulit two years ago. But I've never heard a "normal" Brunswick reproducer. For those who have heard both types of Brunswicks, please feel free to give opinions.

[Edisone]

My first full-sized phono was a Brunswick, which had (still has) a brass tone-arm and aluminum-bodied Ultona. The rings on each side are pot-metal, and the lateral side broke in 4 pieces when I tried to remove it. My dad made a steel replacement for it. Luckily, the Edison side remains intact.

I've seen only a couple other brass Ultona arms; I wonder if they were later or earlier than the pot-metal.

[Uncle Vanya]

The brass Ultona arms are most commonly found on LATE machines, particularly consoles and Radio combinations.

They play most records quite well. Pathé discs sound as good as on an Actuelle. The Edison side of the reproducer can give
a big "Lab Model' a run for its money, though record wear might be slightly increased. When playing lateral cut discs the big
mica diaphragm offers an extraordinary breadth of tone, though it is lacking somewhat in brilliance, with the reproduction of
soprano and tenor vocal discs being a trifle muddy.

[estott]

The brass Ultona arms are most commonly found on LATE machines, particularly consoles and Radio combinations.

They play most records quite well. Pathé discs sound as good as on an Actuelle. The Edison side of the reproducer can give
a big "Lab Model' a run for its money, though record wear might be slightly increased. When playing lateral cut discs the big
mica diaphragm offers an extraordinary breadth of tone, though it is lacking somewhat in brilliance, with the reproduction of
soprano and tenor vocal discs being a trifle muddy.

I play Edison and Pathé discs on a Cheney (with a vertical reproducer) and get very good results- not quite up to an Edison though. I'm not so sure that the record wear is greater- on an Edison the feed carries the body of the reproducer but the weight and stylus are free floating and (in my opinion) are being mostly carried by the groove. A well adjusted and free swinging Brunswick or Cheney arm may seem to be putting a lot of pressure on the groove but the Edison weight is very heavy.

[SignatureSeriesOwner]

On this one, since the arm is brass, that can be polished without fear of removing the finish, yes?

[Uncle Vanya]

NO. The brass arms are usually gold plated. Often the discoloration is in the lacquer coating the gold

Try removing the lacquer coating with acetone or lacquer. This usually brightens the arm right up

Satin acrylic lacquer can then be used to restore the coating.