Owners of orthophonics : What needs to be done here?

[AmberolaAndy]

Thank you all for for great advice! Orthophonic machines are a little harder to find where I live. So I do whatever I can do to get my 8-4 working in tip-top shape!

[burke]

I'm not sure if this is worth mentioning but it's something I used to do when restoring antiques and parts made from spelter and pot/junk metals. You could try it 'aswell' as the suggestions above. Squirt super glue (cyanoacrylate) into the cracks of the junk metal. The glue must be new and newly opened so that it is really thin and runny. If you are lucky the cracks will soak it up like a sponge and get as much in there as possible while wet. A good absorption and build up can take sometime to really harden. I have found this can add strength to the metal but more importantly it helps to seal the cracks against the gases and air that cause this 'intergranular corrosion' and should help slow or prevent further decay where it's occurring.

I guess its like using a wood hardener but for metal. No good if the glue is thick or 'gel' type superglue or the cracks are oily or dirty. Here in Britain they sell a product called 'Detach' which might help thin the glue further for greater penetration. No good too if the metal has to be plated of course! I don't know if anyone else has tried this?

Jamie

I have done something similar. I bought a No.4 soundbox from a member here and it had numerous hairline cracks on the casing. When I rebuilt it I used crazy glue in those cracks and for good measure put a 'skim coat' of good old JB weld over top.

[AmberolaAndy]

Ok. I put on a thin coat of loctite epoxy over some of the cracks. Is this ok? Or did I goof it up?

[85corvetteman]

That’s exactly what I did on mine just in hopes it would slow down the deterioration or at least keep it from propagating. This way epoxy is not in contact with cast iron pieces in case you ever have to replace the pot metal piece.
I then put silicone where other member had suggested as indicated by red arrows.

Terry

[OrthoFan]

I then put silicone where other member had suggested as indicated by red arrows.
Terry

That's the best way to ensure an air-tight seal when the compression coupling, itself, cannot be disassembled and the gasket inspected to make sure that it hasn't degraded. I don't know if a rubber or cork ring washer, or a grease-packed felt gasket was used for the compression seal, but in any case, sealing the outside of the seam will do the job just as well.

OrthoFan

[AmberolaAndy]

Will someone like this be ok for sealing the ends of the flange? Just being sure.

[OrthoFan]

Will someone like this be ok for sealing the ends of the flange? Just being sure.

That should work fine. I used GE Silicone Calk, which is basically the same thing, and about the only thing except for Dap, that's available in my area.

OrthoFan

[phonojim]

What is the glycerine -alcohol fix? I haven't heard of that before.

Jim

[OrthoFan]

What is the glycerine -alcohol fix? I haven't heard of that before.
Jim

That's a wood treatment process to recondition the gum-wood Orthophonic horn.

SEE: http://www.gracyk.com/credenza.shtml

I listened to Mr. Wakeman's Credenza many years ago, and the fidelity was astounding, though I should point out that some collectors feel that this is unnecessary.

OrthoFan

[fran604g]

What is the glycerine -alcohol fix? I haven't heard of that before.
Jim

That's a wood treatment process to recondition the gum-wood Orthophonic horn.

SEE: http://www.gracyk.com/credenza.shtml

I listened to Mr. Wakeman's Credenza many years ago, and the fidelity was astounding, though I should point out that some collectors feel that this is unnecessary.

OrthoFan

Thanks for the link!

Best,
Fran