I have had this question for a while. Below I've posted a photo of a Victor tonearm. The color is uniform but far from shiny nickel. Is the nickel plating still intact or is it gone? I have found quite a few tonearms in similar condition.
If the plating is still intact, how does one "clean" the surface?
Victor tone arm: dirty or loss of plating?
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- Victor IV
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Victor tone arm: dirty or loss of plating?
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- AZ*
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Re: Victor tone arm: dirty or loss of plating?
I had a dirty Victor III tone arm about 15 years ago that cleaned up nicely with gentle metal polish. I think I used Turtle Wax Chrome polish. Like you I wasn't sure at first if it was just dirty gunk or failed nickel plating. I know more now than I did then, and would probably use a better, safer metal polish like MAAS.
Go gently, and try in an inconspicuous spot first.
Go gently, and try in an inconspicuous spot first.
Last edited by AZ* on Sat Jan 04, 2020 1:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
Best regards ... AZ*
- Curt A
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Re: Victor tone arm: dirty or loss of plating?
Use #0000 steel wool and GOOP or GoJo hand cleaner or WD-40...
"The phonograph is not of any commercial value."
Thomas Alva Edison - Comment to his assistant, Samuel Insull.
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Thomas Alva Edison - Comment to his assistant, Samuel Insull.
"No one needs a Victrola XX, a Perfected Graphophone Type G, or whatever you call those noisy things."
My Wife
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- Victor VI
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Re: Victor tone arm: dirty or loss of plating?
Blue Magic polish, Simichrome, or Flitz...and lots of patience! It will shine again soon enough.
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Re: Victor tone arm: dirty or loss of plating?
I have found that when very thin or delicate plating is involved, it's best to use Simichrome polish. I would not use any grade of steel wool on a plated surface.
- phonosandradios
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Re: Victor tone arm: dirty or loss of plating?
Thanks for that tip as i've never heard of that kind of polish before. I have some plating that needs a clean and I see that this type of polish is available to buy here in the UK so i am going to buy some and try it.JerryVan wrote:I have found that when very thin or delicate plating is involved, it's best to use Simichrome polish.
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- Victor II
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Re: Victor tone arm: dirty or loss of plating?
I believe Victor applied shellac to the nickel plate. Soaking parts in ammonia overnight should dissolve the shellac and save a lot of work.
_bill
_bill
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- Victor IV
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Re: Victor tone arm: dirty or loss of plating?
Ethanol is the solvent to use for shellac. This may explain something that has puzzled. Nickel is a fairly non-reactive metal. I have not understood the discoloration. If a protective coating of shellac has been applied, that may explain my observation. I'm used to calling ethnaol just that, ethanol. It may have another, more common name like wood alcohol that people are more familiar with.
- audiophile102
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Re: Victor tone arm: dirty or loss of plating?
I found this Simichrome vs Fitz review.
(Double-click the video above or click this link to go to the video on YouTube.)
"You can't take the phonographs nor the money with you, but the contentment the phonographs bring may well make your life better, and happier lives make the world a better place."
- mattrx
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Re: Victor tone arm: dirty or loss of plating?
If I'm not mistaken, wood alcohol is methanol and much harder to find than ethanol (a.k.a. denatured alcohol).jboger wrote:Ethanol is the solvent to use for shellac. This may explain something that has puzzled. Nickel is a fairly non-reactive metal. I have not understood the discoloration. If a protective coating of shellac has been applied, that may explain my observation. I'm used to calling ethnaol just that, ethanol. It may have another, more common name like wood alcohol that people are more familiar with.
MAAS polish works well for me, and ammonia will remove any shellac and grease in less than a minute when used with a soft bristle toothbrush. I usually start with ammonia, then polish with the MAAS and I'm usually not disappointed.
Good Luck!
Matt