Decal question

[Mormon S]

So I applied an edison decal to my finished fireside, it all went well and worked perfectly. I let it dry for about an hour, and I applied the next coat of shellac, and the decal started to bubble and the gold on the decal started to come off. I used micro set and micro sol, and it felt dry to the touch, do I have to let it dry for 24 hours? I already ordered a new one...

Martin

[Django]

If the shellac dissolved the decal, I would suspect that there is an incompatibility issue. You might want to check the ingredients and ask the maker of the decal. Please share what you learn.

[Jerry B.]

When I use Gregg's decals I:

When I place the decal in water I have enough time to apply solution #1 to the greater area that the decal covers.
Slide the decal into place and smooth out any imperfections.
Let it dry for a minimum of eight hours or overnight for a banner decal.
Apply solution #2 and let it sit overnight.
Then apply your finish coat.

I think Gregg is happy to send instructions.

Jerry B.

[phonogfp]

I believe Gregg recommends spraying the top coat over the decal (or at least the first coat that covers over the decal). I learned the hard way that if you brush the first coat that covers the decal, you'd better do it very quickly, or successive brush strokes will damage/ruin the decal.

That said, I have successfully applied shellac by brush over Gregg's large Graphophone banner decals. A well-loaded brush at least 2" wide, and a couple of quick but careful passes over the decal FIRST (worry about the cabinet's edges later), and you'll be fine. You have probably 8-10 seconds to work over that decal. Then leave it alone!

Good luck!

George P.

[AZ*]

Gregg provides instructions on his website. He says decals must dry completely before applying finish. Note that "dry to the touch" is NOT the same as completely dry.

I usually wait at least 24-48 hours and then spray the shellac or lacquer.

[Mormon S]

Thank you guys so much for the help. Unfortunately I dont have access to any spraying equipment, although I could get some bullseye shellac spray. I ordered a new decal and I think I will try brushing the following layers extremely carefully.

Thanks
Martin

[VanEpsFan1914]

Martin, if you can get that Bull's-Eye spray shellac and it's fairly fresh, have fun with it. That stuff is amazing.

Take it slow--I had the same problem putting the decals on some Columbia phonographs. One was the little decal on the front of a later Disc Graphophone and the other was the big banner on a cylinder machine. Gregg Cline decals are the best, but like the originals, they don't handle well with being attacked by solvents.

[Curt A]

I usually spray Deft clear lacquer over a decal the first time and then a second coat after letting it dry. It dries quickly and is completely compatible with shellac... Once it is dry, then over coat it with amber shellac, to give the proper aged appearance. Also, lacquer toner comes in an amber color and works well...
Deft is available from - http://www.furnituredoctor.net - Walter Smith, the owner is also a phonograph collector.
Complete catalog: http://www.furnituredoctor.net/wp-conte ... _Line1.pdf - Lots of useful restoration stuff, all in one place.