VV 7-30 with Radiola radio

[PeterF]

Wow that is quite the phonograph, I would certainly jump on it for $300. Is it just me or does the tonearm bracket look broken?

David

Yeah it’s busted. This is common, and replacements are available.

[ymg200]

Wow that is quite the phonograph, I would certainly jump on it for $300. Is it just me or does the tonearm bracket look broken?

David

Yes, the bracket is broken, although the owner says that the machine plays well. I already have a 1-90 that has the top of the bracket fixed with epoxy putty (JB-Weld or similar), will be looking for a deal on TWO brackets

[ymg200]

Jump on it, even if the radio isn’t immediately functional. Great price for a nifty unit that will sound great.

If the reproducer has problems, don’t worry, that’s easy to remedy.

You want to check the operation of the air valve (lever to the lower right of the platter). Don’t force it, but gently check whether it’s swollen and thus frozen. Also fixable. But you might use a frozen one as pricing leverage.

You won’t have a way to test the radio, so don’t try. I’m in the hot tub in the back yard just now so unable to check whether the 7-30 had a battery eliminator or not.

But it is definitely worth getting at $300 in any case. You’ll find the room.

How do I check the air valve? Should I expect the sound to be gone once I move the switch from Victrola towards the radio?

[Inigo]

I've read herein that the valve usually needs refurbishment... so the advice of prudence is that if the valve is in the gramophone position and you want to play the machine first, don't touch it. don't do that until you've gained all the knowledge the experts herein can provide, and you're ready to take the struggle with it. It could happen that if you move the valve first, it gets broken or stuck in some way, you can't play anything, and you are then obliged to overhaul it. That's the sensation I have (I'm not an expert on those) from what I've read herein. Be cautious....

[PeterF]

They are found in any of the three following states:

1. Just fine. Maybe do a little cleaning and lubrication

2. A bit tight or frozen but not cracked. Disassemble and file down the rubbing spots, lube and reassemble.

3. Terminal pot-metal-osis. Find a replacement, or give up on one function or the other, at least temporarily.

I have at least 2, and both are in #1 condition as found. Don’t be scared off!

[ymg200]

They are found in any of the three following states:

1. Just fine. Maybe do a little cleaning and lubrication

2. A bit tight or frozen but not cracked. Disassemble and file down the rubbing spots, lube and reassemble.

3. Terminal pot-metal-osis. Find a replacement, or give up on one function or the other, at least temporarily.

I have at least 2, and both are in #1 condition as found. Don’t be scared off!

Thank you, Pete. I'll definitely give it a shot. Frankly, I think that they could have built in the electromagnetic driver from the radio right into Victrola horn. That would have eliminated the need for the air valve altogether.

[PeterF]

Well, no!

It’s a plumbing issue. Once you see it, you’ll understand.

[pg1876]

I hope you snagged that!

The Radiola 20 is a great early regenerative 20's set. They can be tricky to restore and then tricky tune even once going - but that's all part of the fun of early battery sets. If the UX-199/200 tubes are good, then you certainly got quite a good deal given everything else and overall condition.

As others have mentioned, the Radiola is a battery set. I would highly recommend picking up the ARBE-III battery eliminator online if you intend to restore and use your new Radiola! I have an ARBE-III myself and can't say enough good things about it

https://www.arbeiii.com/

Additionally, you will likely need a substantial antenna for reception - some early cabinet sets had an antenna coil concealed within, and that is possible for the 7-30 although I'm not sure the cabinet is large enough.

[PeterF]

Here, take a look at this auction (not mine) not because you need or want to purchase the item, but to examine the pictures so you can see how the valve works:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-RCA-RA ... 890.l49292

[ymg200]

Thanks all for your tips. This machine has found the new home and I'm its lucky owner. I didn't have help unloading it from the car today, so it's spending the night in the car.
The valve is frozen, I couldn't move the lever and I didn't want to force it too much. My understanding is that the valve body is made of pot metal. How does pot metal react to WD-40? Can I use WD-40 to unfreeze the valve? The valve body seems intact, I didn't see any cracks. The variable capacitor moves smoothly by the tuning wheel.
The tonearm support bracket is broken off at the tip, but the hole for the pivoting pin is intact, so it can play well.
I will post pictures as soon as I get it from the car.