A lot of problems with an Edison Standard Phongraph

[Benz]

Yes, It's an ICS Standard. Nice machine.

This is my guess:

The belt is still too loose, or just worn out.

Oil!
The carriage should slide smoothly along the carriage rod, otherwise it could create drag. Put some oil along the carriage rod and slide it back and forth. It should slide effortlessly with no drag.

I'd also put some oil along the feed screw. The half-nut may need be adjusted. It can't be too tight or too loose when it engages with the feed screw. Remove the feed screw cover and take a look to see if the half-nut is fully engaging with the feed screw properly, and if it is moving along smoothly. (Again - oil.) You can also adjust the rod that holds the half-nut so that is is slightly closer to the feed screw when in the playing position if you need to.

Also, when the carriage is resting against the top of the repeater (the long flat part) it might also create some drag. I've encountered this with ICS machines, if memory serves. Put some oil along the length of the repeater where it might touch the carriage.

Oil the rest of the machine while you are at it, like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYUG5z7nloI

Good luck!

Ordered a belt from eBay, hope that it'll work, about the oil, does WD-40 works fine or I should specifically buy a sewing machine oil?

[gramophoneshane]

Singer sewing machine oil is good.
WD40 dries out quickly, and 3 in 1 oil turns tacky and gums everything up.
Some people use a quality gun oil, or even clock oil, but I think Singer is easy to obtain, inexpensive and perfect for this and many other applications.

[Jerry B.]

When I work on a machine that has not been used for decades I disassemble and clean all the parts above the deck. After assembly and with a little oil, but before I install a new belt I spin the mandrel by hand. I first spin it with the carriage in the up position. The mandrel should spin freely. Next, I lower the carriage and spin the mandrel. The mandrel will not spin as freely but it should spin easily. I look for the carriage to move a bit as the mandrel spins. If the carriage does not move at this point the half nut must be adjusted so it engages the feed screw. I do the above to confirm that things are working as they should regarding the top works.

I visually check the motor and with a good quality lightweight oil service the ends of the governor shaft, the governor shaft itself, and governor pads If the spring barrel has an opening I squirt a little oil in there. Without a belt I install the crank and give it a few turns. If it starts to run I give it a few more turns while making sure the governor works so it doesn't go too fast.

If the motor seems to run OK I install a belt that I've made so I know it's sized correctly. After a drop of oil on the belt tensioner roller I install the belt. I give it several cranks and expect the mandrel to turn. If it does not I looks for issues below the deck such as a weak spring, etc.

I follow this method to help identify problems both above and below the deck. It helps zero in on problems.

Once I have a machine working I leave it on my workbench. I crank it whenever I walk by each time with a few more cranks than the previous time. I try to be gentle if I think I'm reaching the end of the spring. I think of this process as reawakening the spring motor that has not been used for generations. Any talking machine needs to be exercised so play those records!

Jerry B.