Seized Ultona reproducer head successfully dealt with !

[De Soto Frank]

Greetings !

Have just discovered this forum, although I have been around talking machines for most of my 40-some years, primarily Victrolas.

I acquired a decent Brunswick upright this summer, with the Ultona reproducer heads.

The machine is in decent condition, and plays well, but the Ultona is stuck in the position to play conventional lateral-cut discs.

The tone-arm is nickel-plated, and I believe most of the assembly is pot-metal. There are no obvious signs of swelling / cracking.

Are there any tricks to successfully un-sticking the head w/o destroying things in the process ? ( Heat, dry-ice, secret incantations ?)

Or is this sort of repair a "dark art", best left to an expert ?

I am acquainted with "early pot-metal disease", so I want to proceed carefully...

Thanks for your help !

Frank

[Phonofreak]

Frank,
You are right. It is potmetal and a pain to work with. I use Kroil. I apply it to the part that needs to be loosened. It may take several days to get the Kroil to soak into the ares. Then I would carefully move it. The slightest bit of resistance, I stop and apply more Kroil. Like I said before, It is a slow laborious process. If that doesn't work, I'd send it to Tim Fabrizio, the Phonophan.

[estott]

Try putting the whole arm in the freezer for a few days

[De Soto Frank]

Try putting the whole arm in the freezer for a few days

If I try this, do I attempt to manipulate the head as soon as it comes out of the freezer, or let it come to room temp first ?

[estott]

I'm not certain of the fine points- have never used this on something as complex as an Ultona- but I'd let it warm to the point of being comfortable to handle, also so that any lubricants aren't solidified.

[Henry]

As I understand it, the whole idea of puttting it in the freezer is to take advantage of the dimensional changes in the materials, as brought about by the low temperature. To the extent that one allows the object to warm up, one loses the benefit of these changes. So I would recommend working with the object as soon as it comes out of the freezer.

[phonojim]

I would recommend working on it as soon as it comes out of the freezer. I separated the potmetal top from the brass bottom of an Edison S reproducer by this method. I first removed the weight/stylus bar assembly then put the reproducer body in the freezer overnight. I got my tools ready and put a heavy glove on one hand to keep it from freezing and also to keep the reproducer cold longer. I removed it from the freezer and immediately went to work on it, prying between the brass body and the diaphragm ring, working carefully all the way around. The first time the parts separated a slight bit then siezed again, so I put it back in the freezer and repeated the process the next day. After about 4 tries it came out and nothing broke.
So...this process will work but you must be very careful and sensitive when trying to separate parts by this method. Be patient. It may take several tries.

good luck,
Jim

[OrthoSean]

Yes, the freezer trick works. In fact, I rebuilt an Ultona for a fellow board member that was frozen solid (pardon the pun), it took me several attempts and Kroil to get it finally apart. I use heavy gloves to handle the item with out of the freezer, just so my hands don't freeze too.

Good luck!
Sean

[Guest]

Thanks, all for the replies...

I will try the freezer approach... I did apply Kroil to the joints when I first got the machine, about five months ago.

If I succeed in getting the reproducer head to swivel, what is the trick separating it from the tube ? Is there a set-screw, or merely that spring-loaded detent-pin ?

Thanks !

Frank

[De Soto Frank]

Thanks to all for the replies !

I will try the freezer trick. I did apply Kroil to the joints when I first got the machine five months ago.


If I do the head to swivel, how do I release it to pull it off the tube - is it held in place by the spring-loaded detent-pin, or is there a set-screw / other attachment ?


Regards,

Frank