Got the motor back from the shop and would like to clean up the nickel a bit since it has grime and some rust on it. Thinking 0000 steel wool and some alcohol followed by some paste wax?
It has not been put back in the cabinet yet so alcohol won't affect the finish.
Best way to clean the nickel plating?
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S610
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Best way to clean the nickel plating?
Last edited by S610 on Thu Jan 30, 2025 8:23 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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JerryVan
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Re: Best way to clean the chrome?
It's not chrome. It's nickel plating. Just use metal polish or brass polish. Do NOT use steel wool.
Last edited by JerryVan on Fri Jan 31, 2025 6:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
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S610
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Re: Best way to clean the chrome?
Thanks! I will try some metal polish.JerryVan wrote: Thu Jan 30, 2025 7:52 pm It's not chrome. It's nickle plating. Just use metal polish or brass polish. Do NOT use steel wool.
(Also changed the title to nickle instead of chrome
- phonogfp
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Re: Best way to clean the nickel plating?
Although you're working on nickel plating, the cautions and recommended products in this thread would be the same:
https://forum.antiquephono.org/topic/16 ... polishing/
Good luck!
George P.
https://forum.antiquephono.org/topic/16 ... polishing/
Good luck!
George P.
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S610
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Re: Best way to clean the nickel plating?
Thank! I just ordered some Flitz polish/cleaner off of Amazon.phonogfp wrote: Thu Jan 30, 2025 8:30 pm Although you're working on nickel plating, the cautions and recommended products in this thread would be the same:
https://forum.antiquephono.org/topic/16 ... polishing/
Good luck!
George P.
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Re: Best way to clean the nickel plating?
Never, never, never, never use steel wool (of any grade) on a plated metal finish. All this does, at best, is scratch the plating and at worst, wears it away altogether. You do not need to add wax paste after you have cleaned the corrosion off. Similar to hard finishes on woodwork, the plating, when cleaned, provides all the luster and shine required.
I've seen this topic discussed here there and everywhere but you really don't need to reinvent the wheel. There are different metal polishes available which should be applied with a soft cloth. I have always used Brasso which seems to bring nickel plating up with a deep mirror finish shine but it also contains ammonia which is a rust inhibitor so provides an element of protection to iron / steel base metal parts that have started to corrode through the plating.
I've seen this topic discussed here there and everywhere but you really don't need to reinvent the wheel. There are different metal polishes available which should be applied with a soft cloth. I have always used Brasso which seems to bring nickel plating up with a deep mirror finish shine but it also contains ammonia which is a rust inhibitor so provides an element of protection to iron / steel base metal parts that have started to corrode through the plating.
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S610
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Re: Best way to clean the nickel plating?
Thanks! The purpose of the paste wax isn't to shine it up but to protect it from moisture/air and prevent rust or dulling/corrosion. When moisture seeps down through the microscopic holes in the plating it rusts the metal underneath, the rust eventually pushes up through the holes and creates pinpricks of rust on the surface.Steve wrote: Fri Jan 31, 2025 5:53 am Never, never, never, never use steel wool (of any grade) on a plated metal finish. All this does, at best, is scratch the plating and at worst, wears it away altogether. You do not need to add wax paste after you have cleaned the corrosion off. Similar to hard finishes on woodwork, the plating, when cleaned, provides all the luster and shine required.
I've seen this topic discussed here there and everywhere but you really don't need to reinvent the wheel. There are different metal polishes available which should be applied with a soft cloth. I have always used Brasso which seems to bring nickel plating up with a deep mirror finish shine but it also contains ammonia which is a rust inhibitor so provides an element of protection to iron / steel base metal parts that have started to corrode through the plating.
Regarding steel wool, yes even ultra-fine steel wool does remove a tiny amount of finish but so does Brasso, Bar Keeper's Friend, Flitz polish, and most all other "metal cleaners".
Last edited by S610 on Fri Jan 31, 2025 7:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Best way to clean the nickel plating?
I understand but if you step back a little and consider the picture from further away, a significant quantity of plated metal parts have survived very well for over a century without any polish applied, so I wonder if the process is necessary? I salute your perfectionist approach to preservation but I'm wondering if there will be any noticeable advantages over the next century, given that these things will either now be perfectly preserved in heated environments or perhaps sadly be scrapped altogether?S610 wrote: Fri Jan 31, 2025 7:08 amThanks! The purpose of the paste wax isn't to shine it up but to protect it from moisture/air and prevent rust or dulling/corrosion. When moisture seeps down through the microscopic holes in the plating it rusts the metal underneath, the rust eventually pushes up through the holes and creates pinpricks of rust on the surface.Steve wrote: Fri Jan 31, 2025 5:53 am Never, never, never, never use steel wool (of any grade) on a plated metal finish. All this does, at best, is scratch the plating and at worst, wears it away altogether. You do not need to add wax paste after you have cleaned the corrosion off. Similar to hard finishes on woodwork, the plating, when cleaned, provides all the luster and shine required.
I've seen this topic discussed here there and everywhere but you really don't need to reinvent the wheel. There are different metal polishes available which should be applied with a soft cloth. I have always used Brasso which seems to bring nickel plating up with a deep mirror finish shine but it also contains ammonia which is a rust inhibitor so provides an element of protection to iron / steel base metal parts that have started to corrode through the plating.
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S610
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Re: Best way to clean the nickel plating?
It may not make much difference long term. The only part that showed significant rust was the metal crank handle. I did get the rust off with super fine steel wool and then sealed it with poly as I know it will rust again given time.Steve wrote: Fri Jan 31, 2025 7:17 am I understand but if you step back a little and consider the picture from further away, a significant quantity of plated metal parts have survived very well for over a century without any polish applied, so I wonder if the process is necessary? I salute your perfectionist approach to preservation but I'm wondering if there will be any noticeable advantages over the next century, given that these things will either now be perfectly preserved in heated environments or perhaps sadly be scrapped altogether?
It took a lot of time to repair the badly damaged finish (the veneer on top was trashed) plus cost a small fortune to have the motor refurbished/repaired. A little polishing is the least of it! Plus I live in the Ozarks and do not use a/c or heat the room that it is in so temp and humidity swings will happen (just like they did 100 years ago).
Very happy with how it has come out though! It isn't perfect but it looks fine imo. Will post pics in a few days when it is all back together. Here's a pic of the top -- it had split/missing veneer, a big water spot plus what was probably a cigarette burn down to the bare wood.
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JerryVan
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Re: Best way to clean the nickel plating?
VERY nice work on the top.
As to material removal, Steel Wool vs. Brasso, the steel wool can dull or even scratch the plating, while Brasso, or similar, have far less abrasive qualities and should remove only the oxide layer, i.e. tarnish. I will admit however to using fine steel wool with super heavy, caked on, crust type of oxidation. Not much to lose there.
As to material removal, Steel Wool vs. Brasso, the steel wool can dull or even scratch the plating, while Brasso, or similar, have far less abrasive qualities and should remove only the oxide layer, i.e. tarnish. I will admit however to using fine steel wool with super heavy, caked on, crust type of oxidation. Not much to lose there.