VV 2-60 tonearm reassmebly questions and concerns...

[AmberolaAndy]

Ok, I also made this thread at the APS forum just in case these site acts like me like I did in preschool and constantly timing out! this is the first time I've even done something like this.
1. is wheel bearing grease a good grease to grease the BBs and above it? Or will I have to go to Ace Hardware or order something else online?

2. in the photo below, there are 3 parts I have taken a photo of, they all go together correct? Will that pin stay in the hole by friction or was it originally soldered in and I will have to solder or JB weld it in place?

3. In another photo below, I have the bottom of the original tonearm support and the 3D printed replacement, (ignore the bananas in the background) I noticed the original has smaller screw holes and bumps to hold the bracket in place, the 3D printed one does not. How do I make sure this 3D printed replacement is secure to the base?

Thank you guys! Your help and advice is greatly appreciated. Because I will also be doing the same to a VV 2-55 (Thankfully pre disassembled but I have concerns about getting the riveted parts together.)

[JerryVan]

Ok, I also made this thread at the APS forum just in case these site acts like me like I did in preschool and constantly timing out! this is the first time I've even done something like this.
1. is wheel bearing grease a good grease to grease the BBs and above it? Or will I have to go to Ace Hardware or order something else online?

2. in the photo below, there are 3 parts I have taken a photo of, they all go together correct? Will that pin stay in the hole by friction or was it originally soldered in and I will have to solder or JB weld it in place?

3. In another photo below, I have the bottom of the original tonearm support and the 3D printed replacement, (ignore the bananas in the background) I noticed the original has smaller screw holes and bumps to hold the bracket in place, the 3D printed one does not. How do I make sure this 3D printed replacement is secure to the base?

Thank you guys! Your help and advice is greatly appreciated. Because I will also be doing the same to a VV 2-55 (Thankfully pre disassembled but I have concerns about getting the riveted parts together.)

1. Yes, the wheel bearing grease would be fine.
2. It was originally soldered in place. JB Weld might work fine if you clean the area really well before using it.
3. Use the original screws. If the screw holes are too big for the screw heads, then add some washers under the screws. Do NOT over tighten those screws! The 3D printed plastic will not be near as strong as the original diecast was.

[JerryVan]

I will also be doing the same to a VV 2-55 (Thankfully pre disassembled but I have concerns about getting the riveted parts together.)

If possible, replace the rivets with screws instead.

[AmberolaAndy]

Ok, I also made this thread at the APS forum just in case these site acts like me like I did in preschool and constantly timing out! this is the first time I've even done something like this.
1. is wheel bearing grease a good grease to grease the BBs and above it? Or will I have to go to Ace Hardware or order something else online?

2. in the photo below, there are 3 parts I have taken a photo of, they all go together correct? Will that pin stay in the hole by friction or was it originally soldered in and I will have to solder or JB weld it in place?

3. In another photo below, I have the bottom of the original tonearm support and the 3D printed replacement, (ignore the bananas in the background) I noticed the original has smaller screw holes and bumps to hold the bracket in place, the 3D printed one does not. How do I make sure this 3D printed replacement is secure to the base?

Thank you guys! Your help and advice is greatly appreciated. Because I will also be doing the same to a VV 2-55 (Thankfully pre disassembled but I have concerns about getting the riveted parts together.)

1. Yes, the wheel bearing grease would be fine.
2. It was originally soldered in place. JB Weld might work fine if you clean the area really well before using it.
3. Use the original screws. If the screw holes are too big for the screw heads, then add some washers under the screws. Do NOT over tighten those screws! The 3D printed plastic will not be near as strong as the original diecast was.

OK. I tapped the bits together. now I should put the JB weld around the pin and in the gap between the two pieces and camp the piece until it dries to secure it to the tonearm?

[JerryVan]

OK. I tapped the bits together. now I should put the JB weld around the pin and in the gap between the two pieces and camp the piece until it dries to secure it to the tonearm?

Yes, I believe that should do it for you. You may be better off, however, by just gluing the pin in place and not the ring. I really wish the ring piece was not so bent up.

[AmberolaAndy]

OK. I tapped the bits together. now I should put the JB weld around the pin and in the gap between the two pieces and camp the piece until it dries to secure it to the tonearm?

Yes, I believe that should do it for you. You may be better off, however, by just gluing the pin in place and not the ring. I really wish the ring piece was not so bent up.

Yep I only put JB weld around and on the Pin.

Well good news! I got the tonearm all assembled and playing! I hope I put an adequate amount of grease on the BBs and plate.

[VanEpsFan1914]

Andy, is that a plastic 3d-printed bracket?
You may want to use plastic-compatible grease such as LaBelle grease sold for model train hobbyists. Over time, standard greases can break down plastic, and Victrolas tend to sit around for years on end.

3d printing a spare is a great idea, but different materials have different tolerances for particular lubrications. Good luck!

[Lah Ca]

I am quite fond of Permatex® 31832 High-Performance, Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease

2025-08-01 09.18.42 www.canadiantire.ca 9c133b09ce64.jpg (37.8 KiB) Viewed 195 times

I have been using it for years for rebuilding/refurbing Dual turnables, using it everywhere except for where a dampening silicone lubricant is required.

On one of my Dual decks, I had a problem where standard motor bearing oil was inadequate. The drag from playing 78s would cause overheating in the bearings and the motor would seize up. I cleaned up the bearing and the motor shaft and lubricated it with the Permatex grease. There hasn't been a problem in years.

The grease is multi-grade (I think). It doesn't run. It doesn't seem to harden like white lithium grease. And it is safe for plastic.

I have also used it with talking machines for a variety of purposes.

Their product blurb:

High Performance Synthetic Grease with PTFE is formulated to provide maximum protection against friction, wear and corrosion; protects load bearing parts and surfaces subjected to extreme pressure

Indoor/outdoor grease offers superior resistance to corrosion, wear, water-washout and extreme weather conditions with an effective temperature range of -28°C to 204°C (-20°F to 400°F)

Odour free, non-staining and translucent

Protects load bearing parts subject to extreme pressure

Safe on plastic, metal, wood, leather, fabrics and painted surfaces

NLGI Grade 2 GC/LB

ASTM D-1743 Certified Rust and Corrosion Resistant

Applications: Steering linkage fittings, chassis points, suspension bushings, wheel covers, bearings, studs and nuts, hood support bushings, latch assemblies, hinges, door checks, trunk locks, weather stripping, antenna base threads, cams, mechanical linkages, O-rings, seat tracks, headlight seals, zippers and other moving parts

[AmberolaAndy]

Andy, is that a plastic 3d-printed bracket?
You may want to use plastic-compatible grease such as LaBelle grease sold for model train hobbyists. Over time, standard greases can break down plastic, and Victrolas tend to sit around for years on end.

3d printing a spare is a great idea, but different materials have different tolerances for particular lubrications. Good luck!

Well. I'll try your suggestion when I put the VV 2-55 together! I used this stuff because I quickly bought this grease and I couldn't make my mind up, and I didn't want to leave my dad waiting in the car.

[AmberolaAndy]

Oh and I just bought a VV 1-70 from eBay... (seller seemed trustworthy enough to know what they are selling and how to pack machines.)

Those also use the same tonearm support as the VV 2-60 if I remember? I'll try the grease Charles suggested if I need to replace that one (probably likely, maybe I'll get lucky and it's still in one piece, ha! )