HMV 130 variation

[phyi9530]

Hi all, I bought this HMV 130 and upon further inspection, I have some questions which I would appreciate anyone can assist with:
(1) The wood cabinet may have been refinished as it's unusually bright. It does not have that kind of tiger stripes as I usually see on HMV 130 to be confident that those are made of oak. This rather has consistent parallel patterns. Is it more likely to be mahogany wood? Was this sensible and was HMV 130 offered in mahogany wood?

(2) I read the other post about HMV 130 and HMV 130A (viewtopic.php?t=39897&start=10). Unfortunately, the photos attached in that post thread are no longer available for view. So I can only try to apprehend (or guess) the distinction based on the discussion. Based on the discussion, I think mine is of older HMV 130 as it carries a bigger tone arm bearing with the brake operating arm fixed on the top of the rim. Is my understanding correct? It comes with HMV 5A sound box.

I have another one with the brake operating arm being fixed on the circumference of the tone arm. Will share the photos separately to avoid confusion.

(3) I think the crank holder is also wrong for this HMV 130?

(4) It is sad that I also realise that the wood cabinet itself has been tampered. There are unknown holes on the motor board and the wood board on which the tone arm lies. Does anyone have any experience why this is done? A fortunate observation is that it is still fitted with the correct double spring motor (no. 32) although the motor looks to be quite dirty and corroded.

One of the needle tin holder has also been removed, with the holes filled up. The wood board (or sheet) under the waste needle tin is also missing, and this perhaps explains why the model identification label is also gone? The grille cloth has also been replaced, and I think the wood grille is also missing a front wood panel? The current wood grille seems very thin and fragile, unlike the usual HMV 130.

Please feel free to share any thoughts you have. I have been longing for a HMV 130 so much after reading online how good it sounds, and I like its shape more than the smaller/older dome table top models such as the HMV 103/104/109. Thanks so much.

[phyi9530]

Hi all,

This is the other one I mentioned in my original post. I think it's made of oak (due to the stripe grains) and it should perhaps be a newer HMV 130A due to the connection of the autobrake trigger arm being fixed on the circumference of the tone arm? Unfortunately, it also has no identification label.

[Steve]

Hi all, I bought this HMV 130 and upon further inspection, I have some questions which I would appreciate anyone can assist with:
(1) The wood cabinet may have been refinished as it's unusually bright. It does not have that kind of tiger stripes as I usually see on HMV 130 to be confident that those are made of oak. This rather has consistent parallel patterns. Is it more likely to be mahogany wood? Was this sensible and was HMV 130 offered in mahogany wood?

Yes, it is mahogany with its original nitro-cellulose spray applied finish - please do not remove this or attempt to enhance it!

(2) I read the other post about HMV 130 and HMV 130A (viewtopic.php?t=39897&start=10). Unfortunately, the photos attached in that post thread are no longer available for view. So I can only try to apprehend (or guess) the distinction based on the discussion. Based on the discussion, I think mine is of older HMV 130 as it carries a bigger tone arm bearing with the brake operating arm fixed on the top of the rim. Is my understanding correct? It comes with HMV 5A sound box.

I have another one with the brake operating arm being fixed on the circumference of the tone arm. Will share the photos separately to avoid confusion.

(3) I think the crank holder is also wrong for this HMV 130?

Yes, that appears to be a Garrard type winder and incorrect for this HMV.

(4) It is sad that I also realise that the wood cabinet itself has been tampered. There are unknown holes on the motor board and the wood board on which the tone arm lies. Does anyone have any experience why this is done? A fortunate observation is that it is still fitted with the correct double spring motor (no. 32) although the motor looks to be quite dirty and corroded.

The holes are minor and probably where an electric pickup has been used with it at some point. Not unusual and nothing to be too worried about, just part of its history.

One of the needle tin holder has also been removed, with the holes filled up. The wood board (or sheet) under the waste needle tin is also missing, and this perhaps explains why the model identification label is also gone? The grille cloth has also been replaced, and I think the wood grille is also missing a front wood panel? The current wood grille seems very thin and fragile, unlike the usual HMV 130.

Unfortunately, yes, both the grille fret and cloth are replacements.

Please feel free to share any thoughts you have. I have been longing for a HMV 130 so much after reading online how good it sounds, and I like its shape more than the smaller/older dome table top models such as the HMV 103/104/109. Thanks so much.

[phyi9530]

Hi Steve, many thanks for your reply. It's very good to know that it is in its original finish, which I can't deny, still looks very good. However, I also note that there seems to be "waves of wrinkles" on the finish especially on the motorboard. Is this common for such finish on mahogany wood? I note that you have cautioned below not to try "enhancing" it. Guess I will have to live with it. Do you mind to also share on some suggestions I can take to preserve it? Would use of Howard's Feed-n-Wax be of any good? Many thanks.

[Steve]

Hi Steve, many thanks for your reply. It's very good to know that it is in its original finish, which I can't deny, still looks very good. However, I also note that there seems to be "waves of wrinkles" on the finish especially on the motorboard. Is this common for such finish on mahogany wood? I note that you have cautioned below not to try "enhancing" it. Guess I will have to live with it. Do you mind to also share on some suggestions I can take to preserve it? Would use of Howard's Feed-n-Wax be of any good? Many thanks.

No problem. Yes, in US parlance the finish has "alligatored" or as we say here in the UK, "crazed". It is very common with thicker, hard finishes applied to porous substrates ie. timber, especially when they are exposed to heat and UV light sources over long periods of time. In terms of preservation, simply keeping it away from heat sources or direct sunshine (so not in a bay window etc) will certainly help. There's nothing to "feed" exactly as the finish protects the timber; it's not untreated. We have something here called "Scratch Cover", produced by Topps, which is good for colouring out the lines caused by the shrinkage of the finish. It can be applied gently with a soft cloth and contains white spirit which is an effective cleaner but also contains beeswax which allows the finish to be shone up when the liquid has dried on the surface. I'm not familiar with Howard's although it is very popular with you guys in the States, judging by the number of times I've seen it referenced here. So long as it doesn't contain anything which can soften or damage the cellulose finish, you should be safe to use it.

The finish is likely very similar to late period Victors so one of the collectors in the US should be able to chime in to confirm.

[JerryVan]

... in US parlance the finish has "alligatored" or as we say here in the UK, "crazed". It is very common with thicker, hard finishes applied to porous substrates ie. timber, especially when they are exposed to heat and UV light sources over long periods of time.

Even here in the U.S. I would describe that finish as "crazed". Nitro-cellulose lacquer is more prone to crazing, I believe, while alligatoring is more common to shellac based finishes and looks like this...

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