Bottom Cabinet Locked on XV XIV - What Now?

[sgwilson904]

My XV XIV (oak) has two locks, one for the lid, one for the record cabinet below. I have the original key but it wouldn't open either. After spraying WD-40 into the top, I was able to turn the lock, remove the screws and then the lock itself. I've cleaned it, replaced it and it's working fine.

The bottom is locked and I can't get the key to unlock it, even with the miracle WD-40. It turns to the right and stops, when I turn it back to the left it just turns freely and engages nothing and will not unlock. So now, with no access to the lock mechanism and the doors locked shut, what can I do?

Someone suggested removing the pins from the hinges to get the doors off without damage in order to get access to the lock mechanism to see what's wrong. Can someone tell me how to remove the pins? They each have round globe-like caps on the top and bottom of the hinge pins. Which removes....and how?

[img]c:\hold\hinge.jpg[/img]

[HisMastersVoice]

I may be wrong, but I believe the top pin comes out, just like a door hinge in your house. As far as how to remove it while the door is locked without damaging the metal or wood, I'm not sure. If it were me, I would pad the tip of a screwdriver with something soft and try lightly hitting it under the lip of the pin with a hammer.

[penman]

If it's anything like out side door hinges, one of the globe caps unscrews. Try holding one of the globe caps tightly in something padded and turning it or the other one. Once one of the end caps is off you can knock out the complete hinge pin.

[Henry]

OK, here's what I'd do if it were mine. Going by analogy with other removable-pin hinges, it's the upper knob that is attached to the pin; the lower is attached to the hinge for appearance's sake. The trick is to insert a thin but strong blade (perhaps an old kitchen knife) at the base of the top pin to pry it up a tad. Then, using a stronger blade (like an old screwdriver), tap the handle upward gently but firmly with a hammer. If you're careful, you can accomplish all this without leaving any tool marks---always the sign of a good craftsman! BTW, the reason for the "old" qualification is that, since neither of the uses is the purpose of the tool, you may damage it in the process; better the tool than the hinge!

I've never encountered a hinge pin with a screw cap.

Don't strike the pin with the hammer, strike the tool handle.

[HisMastersVoice]

Don't strike the pin with the hammer, strike the tool handle.

Yeah, that's what I meant, I guess I didn't word that very well.

[Henry]

Well, ditto for me as well. I said "pin" when I should have said "knob" or "globe" when referring to the prying and the striking. Guess it's time for some refreshment---is it 5 o'clock yet?

[Retrograde]

sgwilson904, post a picture of the key if you get a chance.
Key reference guide

[Brad]

You should be able to easily remove the hinge pin, but you may have issue removing the door. The hinges are set into mortises in the cabinet and the doors. The knuckles of the two halves of the hinge extend beyond these mortises and will be in the way of the door panel. If there is enough play between the doors, you might be lucky.

Many of the phonograph lid and door locks have a dead bolt that moves into a mortise in the opposite piece (door or cabinet) that has a strike plate. Once the bolt is through the opening in the strike plate, two spring loaded pins protrude from the sides of the bold. This is what sticks. You need to free these in order to allow the bolt to be retracted back into the lock mechanism. See picture below

You would need to get some sort of lubricant into this area. I would try WD40 to start with, though I am not sure if it could damage the finish. If you used silicone spray, you might not ever be able to add a coat of finish.

You best bet might be to be willing to accept some minor damage to the doors forcing one of the doors past the hinge knuckle.

Good luck

[Henry]

That picture is my XI lock exactly. And you're right, removing the door would be tricky, if not impossible, because of those spring-loaded "ears." OTOH, if the XIV door lock is anything like my XI lid lock, the key is not rocket science. Know any good locksmiths? It might be possible to pick the lock or gain entry with a skeleton key. For that matter, how many different key profiles did VTMCo use? Not many, I bet. Maybe Vollema would consider loaning (renting?) a few keys to try; if you found one that worked, purchase it and return the others. Might be worth an inquiry.

[sgwilson904]

Brad, thanks for the explanation and the picture. This is exactly what my lock looks like for the LID of the machine but is it the same for the doors? For the lid lock, the key hole is at the bottom of the lock mechanism...if the mechanism is the same for the door locks--with the spring-loaded protuding "ears" that pop out, the mechanism would have to be upside down as compared to the lid lock? ANd there woujld be a similar catch-latch in one of tops of the doors below? OR does the lower lock somehow secure the doors shut by latching the doors to each other as opposed to holding one or both of the doors from the TOP.

The WD 40 trick worked great to allow those ears to pop out...but no luck underneath.
Does somebody have a VV XIV with a lock for the bottom and can you look or photograph and post what the lock mechanism/latch it looks like when the lower doors are open and you can see something of the lock up at the top frame of the cabinet with doors open?