Edison B-19 Rescue

[squeeker7]

As a final resto project I bought this B-19 off of you know where and recently completed it. I just had to salvage this machine. The reproducer is a spare off a C150 while waiting for the original to come back from a trip to George V.

[squeeker7]

OK that worked here are the rest of the photos....................

[Stephen_Madara]

Great job...thank you for sharing....

[Guest]

George,

That resto looks gorgeous. I recently came upon a C-150 last week that had an all original cracking finish, and broken leg. The seller was selling it for a friend who re-negged on the deal to sell it to me, but I really wanted to restore it.

At any rate, What is your procedure for working the wood, I'm dying to know how you tackle it from start to finish. What do you use as stripper, and what kind of products do you use to refinish the phonograph?

Again, Beautifil job on the B-19.

Thanks,

Tony K.

[Guest]

I'll send you the process I use to restore these basket cases on Sat. Thanks

[squeeker7]

Thanks for the cudo. I'll send you the process I use Sat. Cheers

[Brad]

Great Job George, it looks great.

Please post your methods here for us all. It is good to compare notes

Tony,

Here are couple of threads describing the methods I used for easy restoral of a columbia machine and a moderate restoral of the C150 where the finish was completely shot.

Easy: http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... estoration

Moderate: http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... hilit=c150

Not sure what condition your C150 is in, but please take pictures along the way and post here.

Good luck!

[squeeker7]

Sure will - always good to share techniques and short cuts. I apologize on the reproducer I had temporarily used in that photo if was off one of my C-250's not a 150.

[FloridaClay]

A stunning revival of a machine on its last legs. It is always nice to see them come back to life. Looking forward to your post of how you did the finish.

Clay

[squeeker7]

I have 50+ machines and like many on the forum love untouched originals of which I have many. But years ago I realized there are more original untouched machines out there than I have money..Since I love restoring things I started buying machines in deplorable condition and saving them from the junk pile. This B-19 came out of the box in pieces, back of the lid was broken off, top veneer a disaster and the rest of the case really beat up. I reveneered the top with 1/16th mah double backed veneer (Bob Morgan's Veneer in Ky).

Following is the process I use and have used on about 20 machines to get the cabinet ready for sealer coats and final top coats. The cabinet is completely stripped, all dings/dents repaired with either wood filler or by using a Burn-in kit w/lacquer sticks. Most Victor and Pathé cabinets I have redone had numerous dings and dents on the front outer edges of the legs. I replace missing pieces of veneer using old veneer I removed from past projects.

Once the cabinet is all repaired it is stained with MinWax stain either straight out of the can or color mixed. Special attention needs to be paid to color control so that the final top coat matches the inside of the lid. Let the cabinet dry for ¾ days.

Sealer coat. I use shellac mixed to a 1-lb cut, I mix shellac myself using de-waxed shellac flakes. On this B19 I used Garnet colored flakes dissolved in denatured alcohol. After the flakes are dissolved I strain the liquid and tint the shellac with alcohol soluable Aniline dye.

Application. In order to hide the woodfiller repairs I mix a small amount of shellac slightly darker and cover them using an Air Brush. Once the repairs are Air Brushed out they will vanish when the sealer coat is on. Now for the sealer coats. I use a HVLP spray system, only flat surfaces are sprayed at one time to prevent runs. I do this until the cabinet has one coat and then repeat the process. A 1-lb cut shellace in mighty thin and will run if given the opportunity. The HVLP turbine I use blows warm air so after spraying the curved portions of the cabinet I immediately remove the hose from the spray gun and go over the curved areas with the warm air which prevents running and welling up of the material.

As I said I normally put 2 coats of shellac sealer on and steel wool (0000) the first and second coats.

Now the final top coat. I only use Deft Lacquer (semi-gloss only) The Deft is tinted with oil soluable Aniline dye to achieve the final color. Deft is great stuff, although the can used to say do not spray I have always sprayed it and it levels and flattens like a champ. I let the first coat dry well and steel wool it, apply the second coat and allow to dry for at least a week.

Final finishing. Once the top coat has been setting for at least a week I hand polish the cabinet using Behlen Deluxing Compound and soft cloth. I love this stuff as it leaves no streaking and really brings out the luster.

Warning---------Inhaling vapors from the Deft and Shellac will knock you flat. Never use indoors, I do all my spraying in the garage with plenty of air and always -- always use a OSHA approved respirator. Also, the Aniline dye is in powder form and needs to be treated with respect. I never use much, say a half a teaspoon of powder to half-gallon of shellac or lacquer. Never allow the powdered dye to become airborne .

Thats my story and