Today's find VV 4-3

[mattrx]

Craig's list find today, a VV 4-3. It needs a lot of work and will take me a lot of time, but it will be a learning experience. The cabinet is in better shape than it looks, but the doors had completely de-laminated. I do have the laminate to reapply. I is missing the door knobs and the speed control screw, the tone arm bracket it broken, and the lid will need some work at the hinge.

Can anyone tell me if this bracket is truly the correct one for the machine? The screws that hold the bracket down are slotted wood screws and one is missing. The bracket seems much thinner than ones on the other machines I have, but this is my first "orthophonic" machine. From the serial number, I think it is from 1928, which is a later version of the 4-3 from what I can tell. I am still quite new to this, but I did buy "Look for the Dog" and the "Victor Data Book" on a few member's recommendation.

Also, did this machine come with the leather looking albums, or did it come with the cloth over cardboard type?

I need a few parts and will post in the Yankee trader section.

Thanks,

Matt

[FloridaClay]

Hey Mattrx,

If your question is about the broken bracket that holds the tone arm, yes what is left of it looks correct to me. The screws where the bracket is mounted that show that I am familiar with are slotted, with a somewhat rounded top, and are painted black. For an original to replace the missing one, try Great Lakes Antique Phonograph. They should have one and their prices are quite reasonable.

As you may know, these pot metal brackets fail with great regularity. Several of the supply houses have nice reproductions made of more stable metal.

Clay

[Uncle Vanya]

Since the replacement brackets are expensive, your machine is pretty rough, and your bracket is only broken at the pin-holder, you might consider attempting a repair. A couple bits of steel wire epoxied into two holes drilled into the bracket, making a frame for a "JB Weld" replacement section should allow you to get several years more service out of your existing back bracket.

I may have a set of doors for your machine. If you like I can check when I return home for a visit in a couple of weeks. If I do indeed have them, and you still need them, they would be yours for the shipping.

[David Spanovich]

One place you lucked out is that the front of the sound box seems to be in very good condition, with no visible cracks or swelling, though I don't know what the back is like. I noticed that the tip of stylus bar's stop screw seems to be broken off. When adjusting it, you might want to check to make sure that the screw is not touching the stylus bar. If it is, you'll want to remove what remains of the screw, and hunt down a replacement, or just leave it out.

DS

[mattrx]

Clay, the remaining 3 screws are rounded on top and were once painted black. I will contact George V at Great Lakes for a replacement. He has a replacement bracket that I intend to order soon. Thank you for the information.

[mattrx]

David, there is a small crack in the back plate of the reproducer, but no visible ones in the front. The screw hole you mentioned is empty. This is my first orthophonic machine, what is that screw for?

I would also like to ask a slightly "off topic" question. There is a VE 4-4 in a local antique shop for $300. It appears to be in pretty good condition with no visible cracks on the reproducer and the electric motor works well. I played a record on it about a week ago while looking and it was very loud and very clear. The finish is ok, and the grill cloth has been replaced. What are these machines worth? Is the asking price out of line for a VE 4-4 in average to above average, but working condition? The machine looks very much like the one pictured here http://www.victor-victrola.com/4-4.htm but it looks more walnut than mahogany.

Thanks,

Matt

[David Spanovich]

David, there is a small crack in the back plate of the reproducer, but no visible ones in the front. The screw hole you mentioned is empty. This is my first orthophonic machine, what is that screw for?

That's a "stop screw" which, when positioned properly, is a few turns away from touching the needle bar. It was designed, I believe, to prevent damage to the diaphragm due to "over flexing" by stopping the movement of the needle bar if the thumbscrew is tightened too roughly when inserting a needle. If you tighten the thumbscrew slowly until it's firm enough to hold the needle in place, the stop screw shouldn't be necessary.

By the way, the Consolette is an excellent performer, once any potential air leaks are sealed properly, and the sound box is rebuilt. Though the horn is too small to pump out true bass, it still provides quite an impression of bass when the bass-heavy records of the late 1920s are played. In fact, it sounds more like an electrically amplified phonograph than an acoustic one.

DS

[mattrx]

OK, I need a little more advice from the sages.

I have a new back bracket coming, so I chipped out the broken bracket yesterday and found that one of the bearings is missing. There was a needle and a square nut down in the grease, but one missing bearing. Also, there was a small pin (probably to limit the rotation of the tone arm) that looked broken off from the tone arm.

Do I need the other bearing or will it be fine with 6 instead of 7? What about the small pin? Should I fashion a small screw to fit through the hole? There was the slotted bearing race, another race that sat on top of the bearings, and then the tonearm. The second race had a hole (for the pin, I assume) that was exactly the same size and placement as the one on the tonearm that presumably the pin was attached to.

Any advice?

[estott]

The missing bracket is so you can turn the tone arm back while changing needles and records. Without the bracket the tone arm will just hit the record when you turn it back. It won't affect play at all but it's inconvenient. George Vollema will make it all better for you.

[mattrx]

Here is a look at the progress so far. New motor, grill, cloth, and needle cup on the way; as is a refurb kit for the reproducer, and a replacement for the missing bearing.