japan Black versus Black lacquer

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edisonrestorer64
Victor II
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japan Black versus Black lacquer

Post by edisonrestorer64 »

what is the difference weather I use japan Black versus Black lacquer>??
100 years from now after I am gone who will really care I think the Now generation will say O Toss that Old Junk out recycle it .
I am going to be repainting my Edison B Home Bedplate. and some say O Allways use Japan Black never use Black laquer so really the question to All of you restorers what is the true differnce japan Black versus Black lacquer. Any Input is Very helpfull.

Pic Below is a work in progress I still have some very minor rust to remove and well its a lot of work but i enjoy it restoration that is
Cheers.
Attachments
bedplate with endgate
bedplate with endgate
bedplate almost stripped of old paint to get to the rusty areas.
bedplate almost stripped of old paint to get to the rusty areas.
Last edited by edisonrestorer64 on Sun Nov 25, 2012 9:52 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Jerry B.
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Re: japan Black versus Black lacquer

Post by Jerry B. »

Something is not working correctly with your poll. Jerry

wjw
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Re: japan Black versus Black lacquer

Post by wjw »

I have read here about the original being asphaltum and the rigors of re-finishing with it- but does it look different from lacquer?

martinola
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Re: japan Black versus Black lacquer

Post by martinola »

Having worked with Asphaltum, I can say that it's way more work trying to get a good looking bedplate than using something like Krylon or Rustoleum. I did get a bit of a "charge" out of the fact that I was using historically accurate materials, but I don't know that I'd be up to doing it again.

To me, the big giveaway that a bedplate has been re-done is usually that the black isn't sufficiently black enough (more like a very dark grey) and innacurate details like poor or wrong decals and lack of overcoating layers of shellac.

I would avoid using lacquer for the bedplate. (I'm not quite sure why. Perhaps I'm worried that the lacquer would be too fragile or react with the coats of shellac.) Anyway, I'd recommend using an oil-based enamel for metal such as Rustoleum, or asphaltum or an epoxy-based enamel. Whatever you end-up choosing, you'll want to let it cure before sanding between the coats.

Since it is a total refinish, you shouldn't feel too bound by history as long as it looks accurate. (On the other hand, I still maintain that the only good refinishing materials for wood cases are aniline dye and shellac.) :D In any case, good luck with your restoration!

-Martin

edisonrestorer64
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Re: japan Black versus Black lacquer

Post by edisonrestorer64 »

Thank You Jerry I had to delete it because I do not know how to use it or make it work Properly Thank You so much for letting me know
sincerely william
Jerry B. wrote:Something is not working correctly with your poll. Jerry
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edisonrestorer64
Victor II
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Location: USA

Re: japan Black versus Black lacquer

Post by edisonrestorer64 »

I get your Idea on working with the differnt materials that I have posted the question on. I work in a body shop we can mix all kinds of black n clear it. maybe it will work maybe it will not. we use to use laquer but the standars have changed in the ind they say you have to use waterbase paint now works the same looks just as good enviroment you know got to go green they said.
Thanks for the Input Much appreciated
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Thanks

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