Need Help Please on removeing stuck wood screws

[Dulcetto]

HI ALL, A similar trick for removing rusted - in woodscrews is as follows : First you must channel out the slot of the woodscrew as much as possible to clean it up - I always use a small watchmaker's screwdriver tapped sharply with a small size hammer. Then using an electric soldering iron , apply some heat to the screw for a minute or two until you can smell the wood burning slightly , usually if you listen carefully , you can hear 'creaking' noises , which is the metal of the screw expanding with the heat. For larger screws , say up to 2 inches long , you may have to apply the heat for up to five minutes with the tip of the iron. Now the next part is VERY important --- remove the heat and leave well alone for a few minutes to cool down --- the metal must be allowed to return to its pre-expanded state before trying to remove the screw. Needless to say , select a screwdriver which FITS the slot well , both in length and thickness of blade and if you are careful , the screw should come out.
I have used this treatment with success dozens of times over the years. Its an old craftman's trick
Unfortunately if farther down the screw , it is badly rusted , then it will snap off and leave you a piece inside the wood. Then the remedy is to drill out the remains of your screw before filling slightly and replacing with a new screw. Regards.

[JohnM]

HI ALL, A similar trick for removing rusted - in woodscrews is as follows : First you must channel out the slot of the woodscrew as much as possible to clean it up - I always use a small watchmaker's screwdriver tapped sharply with a small size hammer. Then using an electric soldering iron , apply some heat to the screw for a minute or two until you can smell the wood burning slightly , usually if you listen carefully , you can hear 'creaking' noises , which is the metal of the screw expanding with the heat. For larger screws , say up to 2 inches long , you may have to apply the heat for up to five minutes with the tip of the iron. Now the next part is VERY important --- remove the heat and leave well alone for a few minutes to cool down --- the metal must be allowed to return to its pre-expanded state before trying to remove the screw. Needless to say , select a screwdriver which FITS the slot well , both in length and thickness of blade and if you are careful , the screw should come out.
I have used this treatment with success dozens of times over the years. Its an old craftman's trick
Unfortunately if farther down the screw , it is badly rusted , then it will snap off and leave you a piece inside the wood. Then the remedy is to drill out the remains of your screw before filling slightly and replacing with a new screw. Regards.

Correct. This is precisely why it is prudent to center drill the screw and insert copper wire as was taught to me. The copper wire will carry the heat further into the screw and make a thorough job of it, so there is minimal worry about screws snapping.

[phonoman-antique]

I prefer when I get stuck to always resort to Vice Grips.
If there is a small bit of the screw exposed clamp the Vice Grip
on and turn.You may have to remove a small amount of wood around the screw
to get the grip on it.Fill the removed wood area with wood filler.
Also one can re-drill new holes for new screws beside the old
and fill the old with wood dowel or wood filler.And you must swear to use
brass or stainless screws for the next guy in another 100 years.Pretty Please.