
QUESTION ABOUT MY SHAVER
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- Victor I
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2012 12:41 pm
- Location: GRAVESEND. UK
QUESTION ABOUT MY SHAVER
Hi to all, Has anybody got any idea what the thing is under my shaver, it looks like a heater
?

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- Victor III
- Posts: 768
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 10:15 pm
- Location: Lunenburg, Nova Scotia
Re: QUESTION ABOUT MY SHAVER
Hello,
I believe that is actually a speed control. Simular to a rheostat on a light switch.
Pete
I believe that is actually a speed control. Simular to a rheostat on a light switch.
Pete
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- Victor I
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2012 12:41 pm
- Location: GRAVESEND. UK
Re: QUESTION ABOUT MY SHAVER
Hi Pete,
thanks for clearing that up, I nearly took it off as I am renovating the machine and wasn't sure what it was. Thank goodness for guys like you who know more than me. Gordon.

- Chuck
- Victor III
- Posts: 891
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:28 pm
- Personal Text: Richards Laboratories http://www.richardslaboratories.com producing high quality cylinder blanks
- Contact:
Re: QUESTION ABOUT MY SHAVER
That is the rheostat. It is a wire-wound
resistance that is in series with the motor.
It is absolutely an essential part of the machine. It is used to control the speed of
the motor. It has a slide-adjuster on the bottom. Often these slides need to be freed up
by gently working them with fingers only until
it is sliding freely.
A little bit of dry graphite powder applied to
the stationary rod should help a lot to get it
working right.
On my shaver, moving the slide to the left speeds
the motor up, and moving to the right slows it
down.
Do not run the motor with the slide put all the
way to the left! That runs the motor way too
fast and it will fly apart. I had a motor start coming apart from that, but luckily I
stopped in time, took the motor apart and
corrected what was about to happen.
The speed was so high that the centrifugal force had caused the fish-paper slot covers
on the armature to slip sideways at an angle
and they started poking out of the slots and
rubbing against the stationary pole-pieces.
Soon, if left in this condition, the coil
windings would have then followed and once
those get loose in there...it is all over
for that armature and it would need to be
rewound.
You have a very nice shaver there!
Certain folks seem to think that contraptions
such as lamp-dimmers and modern stuff like that
is somehow better than these simple, old, rugged, and VERY reliable variable resistors
are. I would highly recommend using the
original old rheostat. Nothing to go wrong.
Lasts forever. Just a little TLC every 50 years or so, and it will last indefinitely.
Chuck
resistance that is in series with the motor.
It is absolutely an essential part of the machine. It is used to control the speed of
the motor. It has a slide-adjuster on the bottom. Often these slides need to be freed up
by gently working them with fingers only until
it is sliding freely.
A little bit of dry graphite powder applied to
the stationary rod should help a lot to get it
working right.
On my shaver, moving the slide to the left speeds
the motor up, and moving to the right slows it
down.
Do not run the motor with the slide put all the
way to the left! That runs the motor way too
fast and it will fly apart. I had a motor start coming apart from that, but luckily I
stopped in time, took the motor apart and
corrected what was about to happen.
The speed was so high that the centrifugal force had caused the fish-paper slot covers
on the armature to slip sideways at an angle
and they started poking out of the slots and
rubbing against the stationary pole-pieces.
Soon, if left in this condition, the coil
windings would have then followed and once
those get loose in there...it is all over
for that armature and it would need to be
rewound.
You have a very nice shaver there!
Certain folks seem to think that contraptions
such as lamp-dimmers and modern stuff like that
is somehow better than these simple, old, rugged, and VERY reliable variable resistors
are. I would highly recommend using the
original old rheostat. Nothing to go wrong.
Lasts forever. Just a little TLC every 50 years or so, and it will last indefinitely.
Chuck
"Sustained success depends on searching
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
- rgordon939
- Victor V
- Posts: 2654
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 2:41 pm
- Location: Linden, NJ 07036
- Contact:
Re: QUESTION ABOUT MY SHAVER
I thought I would add a picture of the back of my machine showing what it looks like. These machines were designed to use either AC or DC current.
Rich Gordon
Rich Gordon
- Chuck
- Victor III
- Posts: 891
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:28 pm
- Personal Text: Richards Laboratories http://www.richardslaboratories.com producing high quality cylinder blanks
- Contact:
Re: QUESTION ABOUT MY SHAVER
Yep, they have universal motors which were
made just so they can use either AC or DC.
It's a type of motor that has brushes and a
commutator. They were used in many things
such as kitchen mixers, fans, toy trains, etc.
When running on AC, the commutator and brushes
always spark a little bit, but if it's not
too much, it does not hurt anything.
This goes back to the days when many houses had
110 volts DC coming into them.
Inside those motors where the screws are on
the terminal block, there are instructions for
various wiring options. As I recall, there are
options for 110v or 220v operation.
Those directions always have the warning:
"This motor requires a suitable series
resistance to prevent over-speeding"
Chuck
made just so they can use either AC or DC.
It's a type of motor that has brushes and a
commutator. They were used in many things
such as kitchen mixers, fans, toy trains, etc.
When running on AC, the commutator and brushes
always spark a little bit, but if it's not
too much, it does not hurt anything.
This goes back to the days when many houses had
110 volts DC coming into them.
Inside those motors where the screws are on
the terminal block, there are instructions for
various wiring options. As I recall, there are
options for 110v or 220v operation.
Those directions always have the warning:
"This motor requires a suitable series
resistance to prevent over-speeding"
Chuck
"Sustained success depends on searching
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
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- Victor I
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2012 12:41 pm
- Location: GRAVESEND. UK
Re: QUESTION ABOUT MY SHAVER
Hi Rich and Chuck, that looks like a nice machine you've got, very compact compaired with mine. Just finished cleaning all the top works, got to sort out the ply wood case that is delaminating. Not sure on the wiring although it looks in good condition it is very old and I think I should replace it? Gordon.
- Chuck
- Victor III
- Posts: 891
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:28 pm
- Personal Text: Richards Laboratories http://www.richardslaboratories.com producing high quality cylinder blanks
- Contact:
Re: QUESTION ABOUT MY SHAVER
Gordon,
If the old wiring is still sound and not having
the insulation cracking off, it's probably fine
and will last another 50 years easily.
My 1924 model Dictaphone shaver has all the
original wiring and it works fine.
As long as it does not have bare spots showing
that can either short together or brush up against some other metal part, making that live, it's fine.
Just because wiring is old does not mean it
isn't still safe. It can even still be used
after the insulation becomes brittle and starts
cracking off. The odd bit of electrical tape
and/or heatshrink tubing applied to the bad
spots can keep it safe and working right.
Just be careful and use good judgment and
common sense.
Be sure to let us know how it shaves once you
power it up and shave a blank!
Chuck
If the old wiring is still sound and not having
the insulation cracking off, it's probably fine
and will last another 50 years easily.
My 1924 model Dictaphone shaver has all the
original wiring and it works fine.
As long as it does not have bare spots showing
that can either short together or brush up against some other metal part, making that live, it's fine.
Just because wiring is old does not mean it
isn't still safe. It can even still be used
after the insulation becomes brittle and starts
cracking off. The odd bit of electrical tape
and/or heatshrink tubing applied to the bad
spots can keep it safe and working right.
Just be careful and use good judgment and
common sense.
Be sure to let us know how it shaves once you
power it up and shave a blank!
Chuck
"Sustained success depends on searching
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
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- Victor I
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2012 12:41 pm
- Location: GRAVESEND. UK
Re: QUESTION ABOUT MY SHAVER
Hi Chuck, you guys are a god send, and I realy do appreciate all your help. The wiring does look good and I didn't want to change it, I just needed someone to verify it would be ok. I'm very happy with the shaver and the top works has cleaned up a treat. I will definitely let you know how it turns out and put some pics on. Gordon
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- Victor I
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2012 12:41 pm
- Location: GRAVESEND. UK
Re: QUESTION ABOUT MY SHAVER
Hi Guy's, just finished the shaver and it works great.I shaved an old chipped brown wax and it was like glass after.I had i bit of trouble finding replacement belts so I used vacuum cleaner belts and once I got the right size
all was well. I haven't put the lid on yet,as it needs painting. Thanks again to all who gave there advice, here's some pic's.
