Wood Grain Filler Recommendations for Mahogany VV-IX

[jsonova99]

I'm restoring a fairly earl VV-IX (1915 build date). It's a mahogany cabinet. I'm in the process of stripping right now, but I have no experience with grain filler, so I want to make sure I pick a good one and use it correctly. I was looking at the Behlen Pore-O-Pac medium brown. I'd like to avoid having to dye one if possible. As I understand it, once I finish stripping and sanding, I apply the grain filler and then stain and finish, right?

Thanks,
Joe

[Lucius1958]

Pumice is also considered a good grain filler (wiped on with shellac, and then sanded down): it becomes translucent when the finish is applied....

Bill

[Jerry B.]

It's been quite some time since I bought grain filler (and the label if off my can!) but I'd avoid sanding unless you use wood filler to repair some missing wood. If you strip your cabinet, fill the grain, stain, and apply a finish coat, you should have a nice finished product. I would suggest:
Take apart your machine removing hinges, knobs, etc.
Start with individual cabinet pieces, perhaps a door.
Apply stripper to the entire door. (Wear rubber gloves)
Use 00 steel wool to remove the stripper.
Repeat with another application of stripper & steel wool.
When I think a piece is totally stripped, I go over it with 0000 steel wool and denatured alcohol.
Now you are ready to fill and stain. (You'll notice that you still have a great deal of original color in the object.)
*
If you use sandpaper, you are very likely to sand not only the finish but also the wood and you end up with a blotchy color. Some places, like the curved part of the lid, are very easy to sand and you'll lose color. I hope this helps. Jerry Blais

[jsonova99]

Jerry,

Thanks, I'm actually at that point. I've strpped the cabinet and gone over it with denatured alcohol and fine steel wool. I'm going to strip the doors and motor box plate this morning. I still need to come up with a masking scheme for the lid as I'd like to save the decal. So, it sounds like I should go right into the filling and then stain and finish. I'll stick to the stripping technique I've been using without a post-strip sanding.

[Jerry B.]

I should have been more clear about my sanding comments. There's a difference between sanding to remove the finish and light sanding between finish coats. Jerry

[jsonova99]

Okay, that makes more sense, Because I typically sand to smooth it and remove any residual stripper. Thanks again.

[jsonova99]

I'm going with the Behlen Pore-O-Pac mahogany filler. Wish me luck, I'll report back with my results.

One thing I did notice though is that they recommend you apply a sanding sealer before applying it. As discussed above, I was going to apply this right to the bare, stripped wood. Then I was going to apply stain right after the grain filler before applying a finish coat. If anybody think this is wrong, let me know. Thanks.

[wvphonoguy]

I have been using Behlen Pore-O-Pac Mahogany Grain Filler for a while now. It is a great product, very user friendly and the perfect color for most Victor machines. After stripping, I wipe everything with denatured alcohol, then lightly (very lightly) sand with 180 paper. I then apply the grain filler directly on to the bare wood and remove as directed. After overnight dry, I repeat the grain filler. After another overnight dry, I very lightly sand with 320 paper and follow up with my stain.

I have found Old Masters RICH MAHOGANY GEL STAIN to be a great match for Victrola finishes and it is easy to use. I then apply Behlen Qualalacq Sanding Sealer followed by 4 or 5 coats of Behlens Gloss Qualalacq Lacquer, wet sanding with 400 between coats.

With this system, I have no trouble achieving a mirror-like finish.

Jerry W.