Help! Attic Find Victor II Type M Phonograph

[Cranker]

Dave,

Thanks for the info!!!

Did you also apply this product to the back bracket?

Francisco

[Discman]

No. it didn't need much cleaning.
Dave

[Garret]

Hello, all!

As you can see, Gojo has done some wonders on the cabinet in the first cleaning! The finish isn't in as good as condition as first assessed (see data plate shadow for original color), but it should look fine after a couple more cleanings. There are a couple light spots with missing finish on the lid edges; those were there before I started. I do have a few more questions for you all.

1. How do I get that darn spring barrel open? The gear on the backside doesn't just pull straight out, and the plate sits flush with the barrel edge?
2. How should I clean the back bracket? I fear removing the paint/decals, but the shellac is all bubbled up, and it is really dirty.
3. How many times can you put Gojo on the horn? I did it once very carefully, and the horn looks immensely better, but am afraid to do it again.
4. Can you all recommend a competent plater? Rust has penetrated through basically every nickel part on this machine, unfortunately.
5. Did the little screws holding the governor springs to the shaft originally have washers? Mine doesn't have any, but someone definitely tried to repair the governor at one point, and the poor repair attempt probably explains why it sat for so long...

[alang]

Looks much better already. I would not be concerned about the difference to the as new color, that's just patina. Your finish looks so much better than on mine, so I would only do another round of GoJo after a day or two. Afterwards a good waxing should protect the small spots where the finish is missing.

1. I think I simply tapped the shaft from the gear side with a rubber mallet and it pushed the plate out. Of course the shaft still has to be hooked into the spring, so the spring can ush out the lid.
2. Mine was completely rusted, so I cannot help with that.
3. I've never had any problems with GoJo on horn paint, maybe just let it dry completely for a day or two between cleanings.
4. Same problem here.
5. Mine didn't have washers either, but somone had tried to "fix" the governor with several feet of string, so not sure what was original there.

Good luck
Andreas

[phonojim]

Common household vinegar will kill mold (spores as well). Perhaps starting out with a general wipedown of the case with that will help take care of the problem. If the inside of the case smells bad after cleaning out the mold, sprinkle some common baking soda inside the case and let it sit for a while. You can even put some in a jar lid and leave it there after you get the machine running. Gojo should clean up the back bracket without taking off the striping. I've used it on Edison bedplates with good results. For the nickel plating, professional clock cleaner is the best thing to use if you can get it. I use a water-based product from Timesavers, but I've heard that you can't get it from them any more, so you'll have to look around and maybe talk to some clock people. It is an ammonia-based cleaner that can be used to soak your parts in. It will not remove rust, but it will clean dirty and blackened nickel better and easier than any polish will. I've cleaned some really dirty Exhibition front housings with it and they have come out looking beautiful with just a little scrubbing with an old toothbrush and rinsing in plain water. It comes in a very heavily concentrated form: 1 pint mixed with 7 pints of water makes a gallon of cleaner, so be careful of the fumes and follow the instructions carefully.
Your Exhibition does look like a lever type. If it is, you may need to get a setscrew type needle bar as a substitute because of the scarcity of the lever ones, although they do show up on the 'Bay now and then.
That is a very nice find. Please post your progress as you restore it. I'll be interested in seeing the outcome.

Jim

[Garret]

Hello all,

Please see pictures of the spring barrel below. How does it come apart? I just can't figure it out.





Also, what kind of wood is the bottom panel? Forgive me for sanding it down. I need to get a replacement. The original will be re-stained and finished, and then sealed in a bag for safekeeping. I just can't put it back with the machine, as it is infested with mold.




In other news, the horn is almost cleaned, and will be waxed at the next opportunity. The parts should be on their way back from being replated in the near future as well.

[alang]

Hi Garret,

just slightly tap the shaft on the side with the gear and it will push the lid out on the other side. Use a rubber or wood mallet to avoid any damage to the shaft.

Good luck
Andreas

[FloridaClay]

I should think that spraying the bottom panel with a fungicide and letting it dry thoroughly should be sufficient. Seems a shame to replace it. Another trick that sometimes works with musty smells is sealing it up in a plastic bag with some freshly ground coffee beans for a few days.

As for painted metal parts, now that you have to worst of the grunge off, I have had outstanding results with Meguiar's Cleaner Wax, an automotive product. Just don't get too aggressive with it in areas with decals and striping. It will usually leave a clean surface with a nice sheen and no paint loss (unless of course the paint is already bubbled up and loose, in which case rubbing with anything would likely take it off).

Clay