Herzog 710 Cylinder Cabinet Needs Shelves-Pics

[Curt A]

Here are some pics of my Herzog cylinder cabinet that I referred to in a previous thread... I paid $525 for it in its current condition and am aware that it is going to take some restoration. But everything seems to be there, except for the shelves. I just finished making patterns of the shelves, but will hold off making them until I get the main cabinet restored.

My estimation is that the cabinet is relatively solid, but it needs some re-gluing. The biggest issues are some loose veneer and some interior veneer replacement. The feet are loose and one is missing two small parts, which aren't noticeable when standing up.

Does anyone have a pic of the latches that hold the interior shelves from falling out when they are pulled outward? Are the latches on both shelves, or just the top one which has an angled mortise that allows it to tip? Also, how are the latches fastened to the shelves - are they inset or flush mounted?

[gibsonj]

Hey Curt

Don't know if you happened across this link, but another's experience might be useful to you:

http://www.lagparty.org/~wyatt/herzog/


Nice find on your Herzog cabinet. I've been looking for one of these for awhile.

Where are you in NC? I'm down in the Raleigh area.

John

[Curt A]

Hi John,

I'm in Mooresville, near Charlotte - exit 36 off I-77. You should join our club and attend our swap meets and show. More info: www.carolinaphonosociety.com

Curt

[Brad]

Curt,

Your cabinet is in much better shape than mine was and I paid the same for mine plus I had to buy new feet and the pull. You did well.

Re-glueing the veneer should be straight forward. You can see how I did it in my post.

IIRC the shelf stop is just an "L" shaped bracket on each side of the bottom of the pull out shelves that catch a pin in the side. I believe I used a screw in place of the pin (you can't see it in normal operation.

I don't believe the slots for the pull out shelves are supposed to widened as yours is. The shelves pull straight out and stay horizontal. Yours looks to have been modified at some point. You may like the result or you may not. Fixing for operation, not for aesthetics, will be easy, fixing for operation and aesthetics, not so much (but doable.

I am pretty sure I have one original pull out shelf from my unit. I will take a picture of the bracket this evening and post it. If you are interested in the shelf, let me know.

[cleveland1996]

Check with Tim Fabrizio's website. He was making replacement shelves/pegs for the cylinder version at one point.
Joe

www.phonophan.com (I think)

[Brad]

Curt,

Below are pictures of the bottom of an original shelf. As I said above, there are 2 "L" brackets in the back corners that catch on stop pins. I fabricated my own brackets from my junk bin and just used a sheet metal screw to function as the stop pins.

What I didn't remember, until I looked the original shelf, is to include the stiffening board across the back of the shelf between the brackets. This will keep the shelves from sagging under the weight of the cylinders. Don't make the stiffening board too high or it will hit the cylinders on the shelf below. You will also need the support rods for the door shelves.

I'll second the recommendation above for the Phonophan cardboard pegs. I am very pleased with them.

I also included a picture of the door shelf. Be sure to leave extra room down the center for the shelf support rod. The cylinders are nested except for the this middle row for the support rod. What I did was was to set the cylinders on the shelf to determine locations. They are, in general, on 2 ¾" centers.

Finally, the grooves for the pull out shelves are not supposed to be tappered. I show a close up of one of the grooves.

[Curt A]

Brad,

Thanks for the pics. This gives me the info that I was needing to restore this cabinet. I think I will remove the inside sides of the cabinet and mortise correct replacements to re-install. Apparently, someone thought that the tapered mortises were a good idea for some reason... I will probably completely disassemble the cabinet to make sure that everything else is correct.

I'm glad you mentioned the shelf stiffeners, since that makes complete sense. So, once you put the shelves in, then you install the screws - or a pin - to keep them from pulling out? Are the stops on both interior shelves, or just on the top one?

Curt

[Brad]

Curt,

Correct, slide the shelf in then install the stop pins (or screws).

The stop pins are on both sides for both shelves. There should be holes in the sides to accept them (unless the tapered groove destroyed them.

When you are ready to assemble your cardboard pegs, I can offer more free advice

[Jerry B.]

I have the shelves shown in the photos. Please let me know if they help you. Jerry

[Curt A]

Hi Jerry,
The two interior shelves would be great, if repairable. Does the one with the raised veneer have missing parts or is it just in need of re-gluing? And, what would you want for them...?
Curt