Need to fix my Victor Talking Machine Model: XX-IV

[Thedd]

I just picked up a Victor Talking Machine Model: XX-IV, but the lid is not attached and it needs screws. I do not know what size screws to get for the hinge, that I do not care so much if it is the original correct type... but I do need to get the right size and I cannot find that information anywhere.

I also would not know where to get one of the standard little "handle" pieces to open the two doors that expose the vinyl record storage (I would like to get one similar to the one that is there, rather than find new ones that do not match the original).

Can anyone help me out?

[mattrx]

Congratulations on your acquisition! Can you post a pic or two? That will help the forum members help you more effectively and efficiently. Also, double check the model you specified. Is it a VV-XVI, or VV-XIV?

[wjw]

You have no originals? Take the hinge to the hardware store and find some slotted
wood screws (pan head if you can find them). And not so long that they would run through the top of the lid. If you contact a phono dismantler like George Vollema at Great Lakes Phonograph you can get the nice nickel-plated originals.

[Thedd]

Awesome, thank you! I got it pretty beat up at a goodwill store, and I hope to at some point get it back to looking decent.

[Thedd]

Here are pics of it, As for the model it just says VV-IX... I apparently got the Vs and Xs mixed up, but there are only 4 numerals all together as you can see in the picture.

[De Soto Frank]

Looks like you have a circa 1915-16 Victrola model IX (nine).

This was a higher-end table-model.


This is the same machine that I grew-up with.

Aside from the detached lid, missing door knob, and general dirt, it looks like it's in fairly decent shape.

The area behind the doors is the acoustic horn for amplification. The horizontal slats help direct the sound.

This area is not for record storgage.

I don't remember off-hand the size of the lid screws, but believe they are either #6 or #8 flat-head wood screws, probably ½" long going into the cabinet, and likely ⅜" going into the lid ( make sure these are not too long, or they will break-through the outer surface of the lid ! )

Cabinet knobs are common, if you post a "wanted" notice in the Yankee Trader section of this site, someone will will surely have a spare.


Welcome to the Forum !

[Thedd]

I am so glad you pointed out that the area is not for record storage... with the way it looked with all those slats, it looked like little shelves about the right size. That WOULD explain why some vids I found on youtube had them open, I thought it was just to show the condition of the machine. Most of all, I am just glad it works! I have been having a lot of fun listening to it today!

[FloridaClay]

You can almost always find those Victor door pull knobs on eBay. And you will be amazed at how much a good cleaning of the case with Kotton Klenser or GoJo hand cleaner (the kind without the pumice) will do and they are super easy to use.

Clay

[De Soto Frank]

A couple of other suggestions to the new enthusiast...

Needles: steel talking machine needles are disposable. They are good for playing one side only, then should be thrown-away. The little cup with the cover with a ½" hole in the center is for used needles.

Using a needle for more than one side will result in poor sound quality and accelerated wear on the records.

What records to play? Well, only 78 RPM discs... but more importantly, only older shellac-based 78's... ie: Victor or Victrola labels ( the ones with no mention of "RCA"), early Columbia ( blue, green, or black label: no red labels with the microphone in the insignia). The pre-Depression records were made from a pretty tough shellac compound, which was slightly abrasive, to "hone" the steel needle to the shape of the record grooves during the lead-in. Later records, from about 1935 onwards, were made from a different shellac formulation, designed for less surface noise, for use on electric machines, which used semi-permanent sapphire styluses, and played with less tracking-weight than the old acoustical sound-boxes.

The later big-band records will play on the Victrola, but they will wear-out very quickly.

There is a last type of 78: a vinyl-based 78, which were designed for use in jukeboxes ( this is why we find releases of rock & roll on 78's...) - these are intended for plyback with light-weight "modern" hi-fi type pick-ups ( similar to an LP turntable). Playing this type of record on a wind-up machine will destroy the recording.


Lubrication - Since you are using the machine, it would be a good idea to oil-up the motor a bit, since it probably hasn't seen any fresh oil in our lifetime. Here's a quick way to oil the machine for now.

First, let the machine run-down: just release the brake and let the motor run-down until the turntable stops.

Second, remove the turn-table: it just sits-on the center spindle. If you get your fingers under the edge of the platter at opposite edges ( 9 & 3 o'clock ), and "pry-up" with your finger-tips, the turntable shoudl pop-loose fairly easily. The spindle may begin to turn again, now that it is relieved of the weight of the turntable... this is okay, let it go.

Third, remove the winding-key (Victor's name for the crank): slowly turn it counter-clockwise. There will be some resistance at first, but once you overcome that it will easily spin-off. Remove from cabinet and set aside.


Fourth, now if you look down-on the open machine, you will see a square, wooden insert, containing the turntable, speed control, and brake. This square insert is called the "motorboard". If you look at the front corners of the motor-board, you will see two large, flat-headed screws: unscrew these ( they will loosen and unscrew from their threaded moorings underneath, but do not need to be completely extracted from the motor-board), then pull-up on the knob at the front corner of the motorboard: the motorboard will pivot-open on some pivot pins located just behind the center-line of the motorboard, and when opened far-enouch, the lid should catch and stay-open on a slide-bracket which is a smaller version of the lid-slide.

On the underside of the motorboard, should be a paper label: a lubrication chart for the motor. Apply oil to all the small pivots as instructed, and if you are inclined, apply vaseline as indicated.

A good oil is "3-in-1" Electric Motor Oil, in the blue and white bottle.

You can temporarily re-install the crank with the motor open, to wind the machine a little, and let it run, but be warned, it might fling some of that freshly-applied oil... so wear old clothes, and perhaps perform this chore outside... (certainly not on the white table cloth or any light-colored carpeting!).


Once the motor workings have some fresh oil in them, you can remove the crank, release the motorboard slide, and reassemble things, reversing the above process. Ideally, the motor should be completely disassembled, all fossilized grease and oil removed, any rust cleaned-up, and then the entire workings re-lubricated with modern lubricants, and things re-assembled and adjusted, but that could wait a little bit.

Victor suggested lubricating the machine once a month, I believe.


So, all that said, clean and oil your machine a bit, and have some fun...

[whoopinola]

Don't be tempted to use larger screws to re-attach the lid...Instead glue toothpicks in the enlarged old holes. When the glue is dry you can use the original sized screws to attach the lid.