Edison model C reproducer stylus rotation

[fran604g]

It is held in with shellac, some say a soldering iron but a alcohol burner is better. I have used stratina, and sealing wax ( a shellac based substance manufactured by the Princeton sealing wax company, Princeton IL, where I live. It is made in large cast iron, natural gas fired, brick housed kettles, made in 1908. Although I think they are in business, they are very hard to find open, but if you leave a message they should be able to process your order.) I do not like hot glue, it is not historically accurate and in experiments, it has dis lodged from the holder, and went byby. you can use locking forceps to hold the stylus, just do not put too much pressure and nick the stylus, locking tweesrs can be used too. Just do your work in the middle of a large pan and do not put enough force on anything so that the part zings off.

Thank you for your input and expertise. I appreciate all I can get! I was looking at watchmakers tools yesterday, and I think I MUST purchase some "micro" tools. I'm a "retired" (as in disabled) toolmaker but I don't have anything small enough to do this kind of repair intelligently.

Locking forceps is a great idea, I have several pair, but never even thought about using them! (DUH!)

Fran

[JohnM]

The proper tool for holding and heating a stylus bar is a watchmaker/clockmaker's tool called a combination arbor tool. This is a hand-held brass clamp that has a fixed lower jaw and a movable upper jaw that is spring-loaded to clamp down against the lower jaw. The upper jaw is raised by pressing against a thumbscrew located at the bottom of the wooden handle . The upper jaw casting has an extension shaped like a bar perhaps ⅜" long. Clamping the stylus bar into the jaws and heating the extension on the tool in the flame of an alcohol lamp allows the heat to transfer through the clamp and into the stylus bar, melting the shellac and loosening the stylus. When the tool is removed from the flame it will slowly cool allowing plenty of time to adjust the stylus in the bar before the shellac hardens.

Don't use stick shellac, use shredded stick shellac. It comes in fine slivers that will fit right into the hole in the stylus bar. I wasn't aware of using hot-glue to secure styli. That sounds horrifying to me. Not only is it historically inaccurate, but that type of glue does not fully harden when it cures, which may result in it absorbing some if the frequencies. Besides, how does one remove it for future stylus work? Shellac dissolves completely in denatured alcohol.

Other tools needed for stylus work are a pair of fine tweezers, a high-power jeweler's loupe, a set of precision screwdrivers, a fine brass- brush , and a non-tipping shallow dish to hold the parts in alcohol for cleaning. Watch the alcohol around any open flames.

[HisMastersVoice]

I wasn't aware of using hot-glue to secure styli. That sounds horrifying to me. Not only is it historically inaccurate, but that type of glue does not fully harden when it cures, which may result in it absorbing some if the frequencies. Besides, how does one remove it for future stylus work? Shellac dissolves completely in denatured alcohol.

Not quite horrifying, but indeed historically inaccurate (though, is it less accurate than rebuilding a Victrola No. 2 with new gaskets that come in 2 pieces as opposed to one, like was originally used?). It was suggested to me by Ron Sitko, which is apparently what he uses to attach all of his styli (so, if you've bought a stylus attached to a stylus holder from Ron...surprise! You've got hot glue on your machine!) I didn't like working with it when I tried so I've since switched to shellac. The stylus I did mount with it however, is still in place after 2 years, and the reproducer sounds great. Take from this what you will....

[fran604g]

The proper tool for holding and heating a stylus bar is a watchmaker/clockmaker's tool called a combination arbor tool. This is a hand-held brass clamp that has a fixed lower jaw and a movable upper jaw that is spring-loaded to clamp down against the lower jaw. The upper jaw is raised by pressing against a thumbscrew located at the bottom of the wooden handle . The upper jaw casting has an extension shaped like a bar perhaps ⅜" long. Clamping the stylus bar into the jaws and heating the extension on the tool in the flame of an alcohol lamp allows the heat to transfer through the clamp and into the stylus bar, melting the shellac and loosening the stylus. When the tool is removed from the flame it will slowly cool allowing plenty of time to adjust the stylus in the bar before the shellac hardens.

Don't use stick shellac, use shredded stick shellac. It comes in fine slivers that will fit right into the hole in the stylus bar. I wasn't aware of using hot-glue to secure styli. That sounds horrifying to me. Not only is it historically inaccurate, but that type of glue does not fully harden when it cures, which may result in it absorbing some if the frequencies. Besides, how does one remove it for future stylus work? Shellac dissolves completely in denatured alcohol.

Other tools needed for stylus work are a pair of fine tweezers, a high-power jeweler's loupe, a set of precision screwdrivers, a fine brass- brush , and a non-tipping shallow dish to hold the parts in alcohol for cleaning. Watch the alcohol around any open flames.

That's great, I'll obtain some tools that will improve my ability to repair/replace styli in the future.

Thank you,
Fran