Recently I have started to rebuild my two Edison reproducers (model c and h) but on my model c reproducer the retaining ring won't budge and I think because it's pot metal but not 100% sure, is that why? I looked on the forums past subjects but couldn't find anything besides the usual penetrating oil which is not working as of now. So what tricks work for getting the retaining ring out. Also can you reshape a staple to use as the linkage?
-Tpapp
Edison model c reproducer rebuild
- Tpapp54321
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- Victor III
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Re: Edison model c reproducer rebuild
Hello
Penetrating oil should help if left over night. Do you have the special tool made for removing the ring or are you trying to push it around using a screw driver. Leverage is what you need. Pushing with a small screwdriver is dangerous as you can slip and damage the reproducer or worse stab yourself in the hand. I believe that Ron Sitko sells the proper tool that fits into the slots cut into the ring and gives you something to hold onto and twist.
Pete
Penetrating oil should help if left over night. Do you have the special tool made for removing the ring or are you trying to push it around using a screw driver. Leverage is what you need. Pushing with a small screwdriver is dangerous as you can slip and damage the reproducer or worse stab yourself in the hand. I believe that Ron Sitko sells the proper tool that fits into the slots cut into the ring and gives you something to hold onto and twist.
Pete
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Re: Edison model c reproducer rebuild
I forgot to mention that staples do not work well for linkage as they are to heavy a gauge. I have had good success with twist tie wire. I strip off the plastic covering and use the wire.
Pete
Pete
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Re: Edison model c reproducer rebuild
You can make your own wrench for the ring. Use a small piece of steel of the correct thickness to fit in the slots and 1-2" wide. Cut it so it is slightly longer than the inner diameter of the threaded portion of the reproducer body. Then file enough of a notch on each end of the edge so that it fits into the ring slots with just enough sideways movement so that the tool clears the threads and high enough to clear the body of the reproducer. Even with the tool you may need to put the whole reproducer in the freezer overnight (possibly multiple times even with penetrating oil) before it will come loose.
Note: with a potmetal body, you do run a risk of tearing up the threads, but you don't have much choice. I've had a couple of potmetal C/H reproducers that were damaged that I had to buy brass tops on ebay. They do show up and are not too pricy. At least one that I bought had the remains of a hinge block screw in it, but those are usually easy to get out.
I use .015" music wire for my links. It is easier to bend if you heat it with a small torch for a very few seconds to remove some of the hardness.
I hope this helps. I'll try to post a drawing or pic of the tool for you.
Jim
Note: with a potmetal body, you do run a risk of tearing up the threads, but you don't have much choice. I've had a couple of potmetal C/H reproducers that were damaged that I had to buy brass tops on ebay. They do show up and are not too pricy. At least one that I bought had the remains of a hinge block screw in it, but those are usually easy to get out.
I use .015" music wire for my links. It is easier to bend if you heat it with a small torch for a very few seconds to remove some of the hardness.
I hope this helps. I'll try to post a drawing or pic of the tool for you.
Jim