New member, new Triumph- bedplate and feedscrew rust

[groundhog]

Hi- just registered and getting to work on a new project. I'm more familiar with disc machines and 78s but I used to have an Edison Standard (not a project, though). Looking for ideas on the best way to tackle the rusty feedscrew so as not to damage the threads and wondering whether the bedplate is too far gone to save the paint/ what preventive primer (POR-15?) to use under the nigrosene/shellac if I go that route.

Will be hunting a recorder and 11 panel horn/crane for it eventually but right now just want to get it clean and running smoothly. (I did order an Archivette so I'll be playing/copying via that to start).

[Le0]

welcome to the board and congratulation for your new Triumph! the motor in these machines is really powerful and it can play forever before needing more winding.
I'd clean the feed screw with lots of WD-40 and #0000 steel wool. just soak the feed screw and steel wool then wrap and turn the steel wool around the feed screw (take it off the machine too). it won't take all the crud out but a fine needle should take care of the bottom of the grooves.

before stripping the original finish, try cleaning it with soapy water; you might have surprises.

cheers and keep us up to date with the project!

[groundhog]

Thanks! Will give it a shot when I get back from out of town work.
One more question- are there any non-Triumph lids that will fit this machine or are the moldings and latched generally different between the models?

[Phonolair]

Hi Ground hog, as far as I know you will only be able to use another Triumph lid for your machine. It's not the moldings that are a issue but the size. Edison cylinder lids are not interchangeable between types of machines, Fireside, Standard, Home, Triumph etc.

Best Regards, Larry

[VintageTechnologies]

It should not be too hard to buy a replacement feed screw if this one is rusted beyond repair. A badly pitted thread may cause too much friction and drag, and may wear out the feed nut.

A friend of mine saved one by soaking it for days in penetrating oil. Then he ran #0000 steel wool over the threads as he rotated the screw. To scrape rust from the grooves, he used the corner edge of a Gem razor blade, and lightly followed the grooves from end to end, over and over again.

Some people remove rust by using reverse electrolysis. You can search this site for threads on that subject.

[groundhog]

I'll see what I can do carefully soaking, etc... If the mandrel is badly corroded under that cylinder, replacing may be the easiest (though I would think the plaster would wick away moisture, not serve as a moisture poultice?).

Would I need to turn it constantly in the electrolysis bath to avoid losing too much metal from one side? I know it theoretically provides even displacement but if the threads are that fine maybe it would be an issue.

Thanks!

[STARR-OLA]

Welcome groundhog,ive always had luck with penetrating oil and 000 steel wool,sometimes it takes a few weeks depending on how far its gotten into the bottom of the tracks,but once you get a cleanish spot get out a magnifier and look at the base.good luck! would be nice to use the -looks like original- feedscrew.

[groundhog]

Well, I assume it isn't totally original- from looking at the book and online, it seems to be a Triumph Model B updated with a Diamond B reproducer and the cygnet bracket (though probably just a few years old at the time). Serial number is 56192.. putting it in late 1906 or 1907(?)

[groundhog]

Finally got to start working on the Triumph- feedscrew not too bad. This isn't a priority, but any suggestions on recreating a celluloid tag? (Wish it was a Pittsburgh store but still cool. Kohler & Chase, San Francisco, Oakland, and Seattle

[Le0]

Finally got to start working on the Triumph- feedscrew not too bad. This isn't a priority, but any suggestions on recreating a celluloid tag? (Wish it was a Pittsburgh store but still cool. Kohler & Chase, San Francisco, Oakland, and Seattle

I don't know if you could get stuff printed on celluloid. it would be worth looking around for a printer and a celluloid supply. if it can't be printed, I'd make a stencil and spray a light coat of black rattle can paint.