Possible Broken Cotter Pin?

[JohnM]

I can see a definite 'circle' on both sides of the shaft, which I'm assuming is the sheared pin. My questions is; should I be using a particular type of pin for this? I'm assuming a pin is supposed to shear off to save the spring from over-winding or something similar, so I don't want to use something with more shear strength than required. Can anyone tell me if there is a certain pin and a certain type of metal that I should be using?

I'd like to try and remove the spring and do a full cleaning. What types of grease or lube should I use, and on which parts?

Thanks!

Well, I don't think the pin is there to prevent over-winding (one can feel when the spring is nearing fully wound) so much as it being a more positive attachment to the shaft than a set screw that can loosen. A hardened steel pin -- available from Grainger or McMaster-Carr -- should be perfect. I would NOT use a mild steel cotter pin! Graphite or moly grease in the spring barrels, Singer Sewing Machine oil on the other turning points, gear teeth, and governor pads.

John M

[Goach2]

Hello again,
Been quite some time since my last post, as you can see. (Having kids does that) I just wanted to post an update and see if I could some more information out of the experts here. I finally did the motor rebuild as per this thread, and it went very well. I'd like to move on to the reproducer, however I have no idea what make it is. The only markings that I can see are "patented". I need to find a new thumb screw for the needle, and the rubber gasket(s) on the diaphragm are broken in a few places.

Is this something that anyone could shed some light on?

Much appreciated!

[estott]

Definitely a Heineman motor. His markings vary but that sunburst pattern was a near-constant and even appears on his early OkeH labels as "The Record of Quality". I've seen motors with an OH insignia, and at least one marked OkeH.

In addition to the American sources mentioned I think Heineman imported motors from Switzerland.

[gramophoneshane]

Hello again,
Been quite some time since my last post, as you can see. (Having kids does that) I just wanted to post an update and see if I could some more information out of the experts here. I finally did the motor rebuild as per this thread, and it went very well. I'd like to move on to the reproducer, however I have no idea what make it is. The only markings that I can see are "patented". I need to find a new thumb screw for the needle, and the rubber gasket(s) on the diaphragm are broken in a few places.

Is this something that anyone could shed some light on?

Much appreciated!

APSCO stock a variety of thumb screws, but unless you can identify the soundbox or can find out the size of the hole & what thread was used, you will probably have to send the soundbox to them to get the correct one.
No doubt most other parts dealers will also stock a variety of these, along with the rubber gasket material, but without proper identification, you'll be in the same boat.
If you have to send it somewhere, it probably makes sense to have them rebuild the entire soundbox for you I guess.
Do you know any collectors local to you?
When I've found soundboxes without the screw, I'll try thumb screws from other soundboxes to see if one fits. That way, if you find one from a common soundbox like a Victor Exhibition, at least you can order a replacement with confidence, and it also allows you to shop around for the best price.

http://www.antiquephono.com/othersec.htm

[Goach2]

Thanks for the heads up. Is there any online repository of sound boxes that could be used to match it up with a brand? Is it common not to have some sort of branding on it? From what I have seen so far, it looks most like a Bruinswick reproducer.

Thanks

[estott]

Can you post a picture? Heineman motors are often found with Heineman tone arms, one feature is that the reproducer is attached directly to the arm with screws- no slip joint.

[Goach2]

Heineman eh? Sorry if I didn't make the connection from your earlier post. Here's a few pics, I hope they help...

[estott]

Yes- that is a Heineman tone arm, used in seemingly hundreds off off brand makes. Someone has replaced the diaphragm, it should be plain mica. Simply take off the front ring and re gasket it and it should play well.

[Goach2]

That's fantastic, thank you very much for your assistance. Should I be worried about the newer diaphragm? Would it improve performance to replace it? Also, can you tell me how tight the two 'spring' screws that hold the needle bar in place should be?

[estott]

I don't suppose the newer diaphragm will cause any damage but a more proper mica one will look better. As to the screws they should be tight enough to hold the bar in place without rattling, but not so tight as to hold it rigid.

It's a decent tone arm, the front with the adjustments is brass, the back part is pot metal but usually is in good shape. There's a flat rubber gasket between the reproducer and the arm, if you don't have sheet rubber or rings you can use something like blotter paper.