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Thanks. But right now, getting it to move is the issue.

What results am I supposed to see after applying the muriatic acid? How long should it take? I've given it three applications, dripped into the hole in the bushing, and everything is still as tight as ever. I was hoping to be able to turn/budge the mandrel by hand, but not yet.

If you can't beat it out, I have used Vice Grips at the mandrel to turn it. You have to put a piece of rubber on the shaft where the vice grips grip or you will scar the shaft. Don't be afraid to get pretty nasty hitting the shaft with a brass punch. Sometimes it just takes a lot of force. You may try to use heat also? You are worried about the acid and don't even know if you need it. You have to get the mandrel and shaft out first.

I thought the acid was to help get the mandrel & shaft out. No?

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FellowCollector wrote:I've removed and replaced several of my own Edison Home D, E, F bearings safely:

Doug,

Would this work for a Triumph as well? model B I think.

Mr Grumpy wrote:

FellowCollector wrote:I've removed and replaced several of my own Edison Home D, E, F bearings safely:

Doug,

Would this work for a Triumph as well? model B I think.

If it's a model B, it should have an end gate, and hence no middle bearing.

Bill

Mr Grumpy wrote:

FellowCollector wrote:I've removed and replaced several of my own Edison Home D, E, F bearings safely:

Doug,

Would this work for a Triumph as well? model B I think.

Hi Vince,

As Bill mentioned, the model B (and model A) Edison Triumph, Home and Standard had an end gate so these models should never have a problem with a seized mandrel / shaft. The shaft is supported on each end by bearings and therefore no need for a bearing in the central casting boss as with the models C, D, E and F.

If your Triumph is a model D, E or F and the mandrel is seized then, yes, the procedure that I described above should work presuming the mandrel is factory press-fit onto the shaft as with the Home D, E, F models. Once removed, the mandrel can be carefully tapped back into its original place / position on the shaft. When replacing the mandrel onto the shaft just be very careful if you're considering gently tapping on the nickel plated "face" on the end of the mandrel. The metal is relatively thin on the mandrel face and can become distorted as the shaft hole (in the mandrel face) accepts the shaft end once again.

Doug

Thanks gentlemen, it does have an end gate sooo....

...nevermind.

My thanks to all, and especially Doug. That's what I'll do. Save the muriatic acid for another day.

BTW, where do I go for the brass bearing?

bangster

bangster wrote:My thanks to all, and especially Doug. That's what I'll do. Save the muriatic acid for another day.

BTW, where do I go for the brass bearing?

You're very welcome, Bangster. Ron Sitko has the brass bearing you need: 518-371-8549. He's very friendly, very knowledgeable and he is probably the only person on the planet that will ship you the item(s) before receiving payment. How many people do that today? No one. Probably about $10 or so for the bearing but well worth it.

By the way, too bad about the buggered up feedscrew. My opinion is to get yourself another feedscrew that is in nice condition. By the time you frog around with trying to repair the one you have you'll have more time and frustration into it than it's worth. Just keep in mind that you need a feedscrew for an Edison Home 2/4 minute that will fit your model E. They're around and not that pricey but make sure the feedscrew threads are in good shape.

Good luck and take your time. You'll do just fine.

Doug