Frozen shaft in model E cylinder machine

[bangster]

Newbie here. My main gig is clock repair; but I serviced a couple of spring-driven phonographs, and so more have showed up.

This one is an Edison cylinder player. The main shaft is frozen tight. I believe it needs to be driven out, but it doesn't want to. I removed all the set screws I could find, and attacked the end of the shaft with a brass punch and a hammer. After much work, I have budged it about a quarter inch, but doesn't seem to want to budge any more. I decided I need some advice from people that know something. So I'm requesting any help I can get.

I've read something about a swollen pot metal bearing, but I'm not sure what or where that is. Is it just to the right of the center support, between the support and the mandrel? How do I get it to loosen its grip?

How do I get this danged shaft out?

Thanks for any help you can give me,

bangster

[phonogfp]

Here's a thread that may help:

http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... ear#p60585

(Since you're a newbie, I'll point out that the Model D and E Homes have this identical problem, so the approach is the same. )

Good luck!

George P.

[bangster]

Thanks George. Very instructive thread.

Can you tell me exactly where the muriatic acid is to be applied? Or should I butt into that thread to ask the question? New forum, not sure of protocols here.

bangster

[Jerry B.]

What model (Standard, Home, or Triumph) are you attempting a repair? I find that it's much easier to repair the swollen pot metal bearing on a Standard as compared to a Home. Jerry Blais

[bangster]

Home, according to the ID plate.

[phonogfp]

Can you tell me exactly where the muriatic acid is to be applied?

bangster

I've lifted a photo from the referenced thread (see below). The TOP arrow is pointing to the pot metal bearing that swells and causes all the trouble. Apply the acid directly to the bearing. I've personally never resorted to this procedure, but others swear by it, so it's worth a shot.

Good luck.

George P.

edisonBearing2.jpg (97.81 KiB) Viewed 2238 times

[bangster]

Thanks phono...a pic is worth a gazillion words.

[ambrola]

Remember, once you get the mandrel out, you still have to get the bearing out. Be very careful because you can break the casting. I have done it before.

[bangster]

How much acid, how many times, and is brute force (like with a chisel) required?

[ambrola]

If you got it to move, you should be able to knock it out. Just be careful not to damage the end of the shaft. Once you have the mandrel and shaft out, you still have to get the old bearing out. Sometimes a screw driver will just break it up if you are lucky. This is where you have to be careful not to break the casting where the bearing is sitting. They are made of pot metal and over the years they swell and get stuck. Some come out easily and some don't.