The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

I remember when I bought my Triumph E from Jerry Donnell that the mandrel was frozen up(he had it stored in the stairwell upstairs) that he slathered it to get it to work.When Tim Fabrizio restored the Triumph on of the things he did was put in a new mandrel bearing.edisonplayer

Very informative. Thanks for the photos and I indeed have now taken a look at Reiss. Let me back up for a second. The photo that leads this thread is the model I have. The mandrel is not frozen. I have methodically gone through the entire gear train part by part as I am wont to do. Here's the problem. The mandrel is not frozen but slows down at a certain point then picks up speed again (makes for an interesting sound when a cylinder is played). I've narrowed the problem down to two possibilities. One problem may be the pot metal bearing that is discussed by you guys. Perhaps it has swollen to the extent that the mandrel shaft no longer lines up properly with the pivot to the far left. That's the other potential problem: that pivot. It fits into a hole at the end of the mandrel shaft. Perhaps it does not line up properly. I can not test both the pivot and the pot metal bearing independently of each other. I think the only path forward is to change the pot metal bearing and see if that solves the problem. If not, then I need to look at the pivot. Or I can possibly ream out a bit of the bearing if that's the problem. The mandrel shaft looks to be true.

The machine is a 2/4-minute player that has a very nice bedplate with the original pin striping nicely intact. There are holes on the back where a cygnet horn bracket was placed. I have one of those now, i.e. just the bracket, not the rest of the crane and not the horn. If I can't get the machine to run properly, I see no point in pursuing the other parts.

I hope I am clear when I refer to the pivot. It fits through a hole in a stanchion to the far left. It's position is adjustable. Once in the right place, such that there is little endshake to the mandrel, one can then tighten down on a screw to lock the pivot in place. I hope I'm clear.

One avenue of inquiry you might follow (if you haven't already):

You say the speed drops "at a certain point" on the cylinder: does it always do this at the same point? If so, I would check the feed screw, the back rod, and perhaps even the straight edge, for any damage or gunk that might interfere with tracking.

Replacing the center bearing is a good idea in any case; but if you are willing to try, you might try lapping the bearing with a rod of the right diameter, and some valve compound, to see whether you can get both bearings aligned properly.

Bill

Check also for a spot on the back rod being either slightly bent or rusted - - anything that might cause friction/resistance to the passing of the carriage.

George P.

I agree that it sounds like something feedscrew-related.

The mandrel shaft bearing surfaces could probably stand a polishing, but if it were adjusted too tightly then it should constantly affect the speed It's an easy enough adjustment to try out and check off your list. Same goes for the feedscrew bearings.

Everyone: I will check the feedscrew. I'm off on travel for a week and a half, but wanted to let people know that I've read their posts. When I get back I will examine the machine from a new perspective and see if the problem lies elsewhere before I attach that mandrel bearing.

I'm back. I don't want people to think that I don't read and act on their suggestions. I have since done a number of things with this machine. I believe the stanchion bearing is perfectly fine. Why? This is a 2/4-minute machine. I removed the clutch gear from the mandrel shaft and connected the belt to the pulley. By doing so I disconnected the mandrel from the 2/4-minute drive train. The mandrel seemed to spin with an even speed. Strongly suggests the bearing and left-most pivot are fine. That's good. Then I put the clutch gear back on the mandrel shaft. With the carriage raised so that the half nut was not engaged, the mandrel again seemed to spin with an even speed. Also good. I then played with the feed screw and got the carriage to track the entire length of the mandrel with what seems to be a constant speed (I have not used a strobe). Here's the problem: When i put a cylinder on and lower the reproducer, the mandrel comes to a halt. And the motor too. Too much resistance, or so I think. I had previously disassembled the entire motor and oiled it. I did not remove the mainspring as I had gotten to lazy. At this point I am thinking that the motor is not delivering enough power to overcome any resistance incurred when the stylus makes contact with the cylinder. I hope to remove the mainspring this weekend and repack it with clean grease. Glad to hear any suggestions.

I think this thread should be relocated to either Machines or Tips.

Your inductive logic would seem to make sense, but the amount of friction between the stylus and the record is negligible - - certainly not enough to bring the machine to a stop.

It sounds like the half-nut bar is out of adjustment; if so, the added weight of a reproducer might well cause the machine to slow and stop under the drag. Take an ordinary business card and place the edge of it on the straight-edge - now lower the carriage on top of the card in playing position. Now adjust the half-nut bar so it just engages the feedscrew. Remove the business card and the half nut should be adjusted. If the problem persists, try loosening the two screws that hold the half-nut to the bar. (Be sure the half-nut can move freely on the bar with the screws loosened. You may need to remove it and clean both parts.) Now lower the carriage into playing position and allow the half-nut to adjust itself to the feedscrew. Without raising of otherwise moving the carriage, bring the motor to a stop and carefully tighten the two half-nut screws while the half-nut is engaged.

Good luck - -

George P.