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The bad thing in this case is the difficulty in extracting the seized too large ball from the cup ... A real fight!

Inigo wrote: Thu Sep 26, 2024 4:59 pm I believe that in my examples of no32 and no34 motors, I have bearing balls on both sides of the governor.
In any case, the side of the plate would nod need it, as the force is exerted on the other side, towards the worm.

Thank you for explaining.
regards
Sheraz

Glad to help. You only need to see which side is the "force" bearing which is pressed by the mechanism when running. There, the ball is a must.
Just though and feel the little balls inside the brass cups with the point of a needle. It is probably that they're still there, as they are very difficult to extract from their place.
Notice also which of the two brass bearings has the slot in the middle, as this must go in the worm side, the slot is for getting it in its fixed position with the set screw inside the slot. The opposite bearing, at the disc side, can be slightly displaced to give just a bit of gap to the axis longitudinally.

I’ve now looked at this again whilst reassembling. A 2mm ball bearing in the vacant worm end governor keeper seems to work ok. A 5mm ball bearing, although it goes into the hole in the chassis at the end of the spindle shaft, is too big, as I can’t then fix the spindle gear in the hole in the shaft. So new ball bearings at 3 and 4mm are on their way - I’ll let you know …
(Apologies if the terminology is not right)

rw101 wrote: Tue Oct 01, 2024 1:17 pm A 5mm ball bearing, although it goes into the hole in the chassis at the end of the spindle shaft, is too big, as I can’t then fix the spindle gear in the hole in the shaft. So new ball bearings at 3 and 4mm are on their way - I’ll let you know …

Thanks for the update. I revised my earlier comment pertaining to the ball bearing size.

Ok, so I’ve put in a 4mm ball bearing and that seems to have done the trick. All running smoothly and quietly.
Except that when I’m winding the motor, there is a loud clunk exactly every revolution of the winding handle. Can anyone shed light on what this may be? I’m thinking perhaps a spring is not connecting to the casing correctly, or is broken (although would it work with only one spring?). So will have to open up the spring barrel again to investigate ?
Thanks

rw101 wrote: Sun Oct 06, 2024 5:56 pm Ok, so I’ve put in a 4mm ball bearing and that seems to have done the trick. All running smoothly and quietly.
Except that when I’m winding the motor, there is a loud clunk exactly every revolution of the winding handle. Can anyone shed light on what this may be? I’m thinking perhaps a spring is not connecting to the casing correctly, or is broken (although would it work with only one spring?). So will have to open up the spring barrel again to investigate ?
Thanks

No. It won't work with just 1 spring. It seems as if you either have a broken spring, or an un-hooked spring. The telltale sign is that it winds forever, without ever feeling fully wound. If the clunk happens immediately upon winding, the spring is likely unhooked on its inner end. If it only begins to clunk after many turns of winding, the spring is then unhooked at its outer end, where it attaches to the barrel.

Thank you that’s helpful. I tried again this morning from the motor being completely run down. 5 or 6 rotations of the winding handle are fine, then it starts clonking once each turn. It winds up to full wind - doesn’t go on winding indefinitely - and then the motor winds down smoothly ok (although it’s not got a record and the associated weight of the soundbox / needle etc yet). I’ll have a look and see what I can see.