Slight buzzing from reproducer.

[mrvic2]

Great! Good for you!

Double check with the thickness of the old tubing, while taking into account that it's probably now crushed flat, with no spring-back.

https://thephonographshop.com/products/ ... 8-od-304pf
(I assume they're selling this by the foot.)

They also have it a little bit thicker, if needed. https://thephonographshop.com/products/ ... -foot-9030

Look very closely for any holes or rips in the diaphragm. Hold it up to the light and look for even the tiniest pinholes.

I found no holes in the diaphragm.
After comparing with the tubing on my own Exhibition, it seems like it might be a bit too thick. It would probably squeeze into place, but do you think if there's too much pressure from the squished rubber it would impact preformance?

[CarlosV]

I found no holes in the diaphragm.
After comparing with the tubing on my own Exhibition, it seems like it might be a bit too thick. It would probably squeeze into place, but do you think if there's too much pressure from the squished rubber it would impact preformance?

The best performance results from low compression, so you could try a thinner tubing. But if I understood well, the same soundbox was performing well and it suddenly started to buzz, so we cannot blame the tubing for that. When these sudden changes occurred in my machines, it was due to some screw coming loose, either in the needle stem pivot attachment to the body or that little screw that attaches the diaphragm to the stem. Another possible source of buzzing is when the diaphragm touches the sides of the body - this normally occurs when we replace the tubing and do not center exactly the diaphragm when reassembling.

[mrvic2]

I found no holes in the diaphragm.
After comparing with the tubing on my own Exhibition, it seems like it might be a bit too thick. It would probably squeeze into place, but do you think if there's too much pressure from the squished rubber it would impact preformance?

The best performance results from low compression, so you could try a thinner tubing. But if I understood well, the same soundbox was performing well and it suddenly started to buzz, so we cannot blame the tubing for that. When these sudden changes occurred in my machines, it was due to some screw coming loose, either in the needle stem pivot attachment to the body or that little screw that attaches the diaphragm to the stem. Another possible source of buzzing is when the diaphragm touches the sides of the body - this normally occurs when we replace the tubing and do not center exactly the diaphragm when reassembling.

That might be it. The needle bar is able to slightly move independently from the diaphragm, and the original seal is cracking on it.

What should I do to tighten it? should I remove the original seal, and then tighten it? what should I reseal it with? would regular candlewax work?

I feel like the gaskets could still be of issue, considering how hard they are - although I'm starting to believe it's not rubber. It definitely doesn't behave like aged rubber, more like a cardstock sort of material

[CarlosV]

That might be it. The needle bar is able to slightly move independently from the diaphragm, and the original seal is cracking on it.

What should I do to tighten it? should I remove the original seal, and then tighten it? what should I reseal it with? would regular candlewax work?

I feel like the gaskets could still be of issue, considering how hard they are - although I'm starting to believe it's not rubber. It definitely doesn't behave like aged rubber, more like a cardstock sort of material

The easiest is to gently remove the seal - it is normally a dab of wax - and tighten the little screw in the connection. After it is tightened you can reseal with another dab of wax. The gaskets may indeed be cardboard, they were used on some aluminium diaphragms, like the HMV 5. If this is the case, they do not perish, just reinstall them in place.

[Inigo]

Sorry so you but NO-NO-NO!!
This is a true Paillard Maestrophonic no13, and unless a break in the diaphragm, which is almost impossible under normal circumstances, because of its design, or an inclusion of dirt, or oxidation, doesn't need maintenance.
The gaskets are in perfect shape; they are flat gaskets made of a kind of gutta-percha or alike, not rubber nor any kind of tubing. They are simply flat thin hard cushions too avoid metal-metal contact.
You can examine the diaphragm for signs of break, years or oxidation, but if it is in good shape, you must reassemble it as is, procure reassemble things exactly as they were. Sometimes there gaskets are adhered to the diaphragm due to the large edge pressure exerted by the five screws. Thus, you may know that any attempt to separate the gaskets from the diaphragm can lead to a breakage on case they are agreed.
The diaphragm is a fabulous thin and delicate aluminium corrugated marvel which produces an incredible loud sound.
All this unless someone has disassembled it before.
Just clean everything from dust or whatever, very carefully, and reassemble it.
Later I'll tell you the only adjustment possible on this.
Be careful with them diaphragm center, it's a big and delicate central dome, easily spoiled if forced when assembling.
The design of this soundbox doesn't give much room to failures, except if oxidation or dirt gets inside because of bad storage conditions.
It's dynamic design lies only in the compliance of the diaphragm itself (because of its shape and material) and of the tiny rocking plate at the needlebar fulcrum. The only thing to do is to screw firmly the five screws at the back, which hold the diaphragm edge firmly pressed between the flat gaskets. This point has no possible adjustment except tightly pressed.
The other point, the flat fulcrum plate, lies in the compliance of the copper plate squeezed between two hard steel plates at the needlebar end; I've seen this edge plates sometimes screwed and sometimes bolted (non disassemble possible) together; one of them is welded to the needlebar.
The other flexible plate edge is pressed against a flat area at the soundbox front ring edge by another steel plate tightly screwed in. This joint I'm pretty sure it's intended to be assembled and also tightly screwed in. And here's where a buzzing can originate, if these screws are loose. Although in a constant tinkering with things gramophonic, I've discovered that the degree of tightness given to these two tiny screws modifies somewhat the sound.

[JerryVan]

Sorry so you but NO-NO-NO!!
This is a true Paillard Maestrophonic no13....

The danger of giving generic advice for a specialty item...

Thank you for your insight on this reproducer, Inigo! You're always very helpful!

[Inigo]

Hope it helps!

[mrvic2]

Sorry so you but NO-NO-NO!!
This is a true Paillard Maestrophonic no13, and unless a break in the diaphragm, which is almost impossible under normal circumstances, because of its design, or an inclusion of dirt, or oxidation, doesn't need maintenance.
The gaskets are in perfect shape; they are flat gaskets made of a kind of gutta-percha or alike, not rubber nor any kind of tubing. They are simply flat thin hard cushions too avoid metal-metal contact.
You can examine the diaphragm for signs of break, years or oxidation, but if it is in good shape, you must reassemble it as is, procure reassemble things exactly as they were. Sometimes there gaskets are adhered to the diaphragm due to the large edge pressure exerted by the five screws. Thus, you may know that any attempt to separate the gaskets from the diaphragm can lead to a breakage on case they are agreed.
The diaphragm is a fabulous thin and delicate aluminium corrugated marvel which produces an incredible loud sound.
All this unless someone has disassembled it before.
Just clean everything from dust or whatever, very carefully, and reassemble it.
Later I'll tell you the only adjustment possible on this.
Be careful with them diaphragm center, it's a big and delicate central dome, easily spoiled if forced when assembling.
The design of this soundbox doesn't give much room to failures, except if oxidation or dirt gets inside because of bad storage conditions.
It's dynamic design lies only in the compliance of the diaphragm itself (because of its shape and material) and of the tiny rocking plate at the needlebar fulcrum. The only thing to do is to screw firmly the five screws at the back, which hold the diaphragm edge firmly pressed between the flat gaskets. This point has no possible adjustment except tightly pressed.
The other point, the flat fulcrum plate, lies in the compliance of the copper plate squeezed between two hard steel plates at the needlebar end; I've seen this edge plates sometimes screwed and sometimes bolted (non disassemble possible) together; one of them is welded to the needlebar.
The other flexible plate edge is pressed against a flat area at the soundbox front ring edge by another steel plate tightly screwed in. This joint I'm pretty sure it's intended to be assembled and also tightly screwed in. And here's where a buzzing can originate, if these screws are loose. Although in a constant tinkering with things gramophonic, I've discovered that the degree of tightness given to these two tiny screws modifies somewhat the sound.

While it's sadly too late to restore the original wax seal of the needle bar (and any unnoticed damage to the diaphragm from my unskilled repair attempt), I think what I did could have definitely gone worse, as it seems to buzz just as much as it used to.

Im not home right now, but I believe I have every screw i can tightened on it, I'm not too sure about the center part though. Once I make it home, I'll update you

[Inigo]

If there is a cruise in the diaphragm Central Dome you can flatten it using the back end of a pencil or something soft to try to make it into shape again. The peak in the dome where the needlebar is attached must be hard, not stressed.
If the diaphragm has a bumpy area is not so important if it is still stiff enough. The treble rank is what suffers most from imperfections in the shape or stressed diaphragm areas, although if most of the area is good you'll still get a good sound.
Holes in the diaphragm, if any, can be carefully covered with a tiny drop of super glue or lacquer, to seal the air escape. The diaphragm must be airtight.

[mrvic2]

If there is a cruise in the diaphragm Central Dome you can flatten it using the back end of a pencil or something soft to try to make it into shape again. The peak in the dome where the needlebar is attached must be hard, not stressed.
If the diaphragm has a bumpy area is not so important if it is still stiff enough. The treble rank is what suffers most from imperfections in the shape or stressed diaphragm areas, although if most of the area is good you'll still get a good sound.
Holes in the diaphragm, if any, can be carefully covered with a tiny drop of super glue or lacquer, to seal the air escape. The diaphragm must be airtight.

After tightening the screws, the reproducer does indeed preform much better.
There was one hole in the reproducer, that I believe must have been there originally, since a picture i took a while ago shows a slight dab of wax near where I saw it. I sealed it the same way, and it seems to be preforming good. I don't believe there is any other damage on the reproducer, and it seems to be preforming how it did when I first got it, so i believe it is good.

Thank you for the reply!