The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

JerryVan wrote: Sun Jul 28, 2024 7:50 am opening up the hole to accommodate a brass sleeve will cut away the back side of the stepped drive pin, allowing it to fall out.

I don't know if you can see from the pictures but the inside of the bore is actually stepped. It's narrower up by the exit and deeper where the pin is. I would only drill out the raised section and put the bushing in there. The reason for this is the amount of play between this bore and the shaft was great enough to put some pretty big scoring marks on the through spindle. I've polished those out but would like to avoid anymore wear.

I've contacted a local instrument repair shop. I've sent instruments to them for 20 years. Not sure why this would be any different than repairing a euphonium or horn in F! If they think adding the bushing is beyond them (which I can't believe it would be) I'll skip that part, but if I have a chance to improve this motor after what the poor thing has gone through I'll do my best.

Thanks!

I decided, while I'm waiting to get the spring barrels going, that I would start on all the other parts. Remember, I want to keep the patina, but not the grunge. The nickel on the tonearm was pretty bad but using a dremel with a very fine wire wheel, some #0000 steel wool, and some Hagerty silver polish it's starting to look better than it did. I need to decide if I pick up a tube of Flitz and have another go at it or if this is as good as it's going to get. What do you think?

Night time hit and it was time to get out the GoJo and the steel wool. This got the same treatment that the Herzog cabinet got. Sometimes this is the most fun part of getting an old phonograph; watching the grunge come off!

Dischoard wrote: Mon Jul 29, 2024 8:41 am

JerryVan wrote: Sun Jul 28, 2024 7:50 am opening up the hole to accommodate a brass sleeve will cut away the back side of the stepped drive pin, allowing it to fall out.

I don't know if you can see from the pictures but the inside of the bore is actually stepped. It's narrower up by the exit and deeper where the pin is. I would only drill out the raised section and put the bushing in there. The reason for this is the amount of play between this bore and the shaft was great enough to put some pretty big scoring marks on the through spindle. I've polished those out but would like to avoid anymore wear.

I've contacted a local instrument repair shop. I've sent instruments to them for 20 years. Not sure why this would be any different than repairing a euphonium or horn in F! If they think adding the bushing is beyond them (which I can't believe it would be) I'll skip that part, but if I have a chance to improve this motor after what the poor thing has gone through I'll do my best.

Thanks!

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Sounds like a plan! You're doing a nice job. Keep it up!

So I was looking to solve my governor problem by ordering parts from the Phonograph Shop. It appears that the only weights available are the larger, half-round, nickel plated ones. I didn't see any steel ones that hang over the spring. So in that case I figured I'd use the springs and weights off a parted out VV-X that I have. The springs measure the same in thickness and length. Then I found that all the lower collars on the PS page appear to be for newer Victrolas so I figured I'd use the one from the VV-X as well. With all that I figured, heck, why not just use the whole assemble from the VV-X? I took it off the spindle, got the friction pads around the mech and put it in place. The only thing I could really change about this is to order a new friction plate from PS. If this doesn't work for any reason, that's what I'll do.

I'm running out of things to do while I search for a solution to my spring barrels. The instrument repair company I spoke with said "sounds like a fun project, we can get you in in December or January"

These are the correct weights at the Phonograph Shop. https://thephonographshop.com/products/ ... fe2f&_ss=r. They are reproduction but are correct style. Having said that if your governor parts off the donor machine are working - great!

Thank you! I swear I looked and couldn't find those. Maybe I can get an order in for one before my order ships out! Hate to pay the shipping twice!

So I took the spring out of the main-gear spring barrel and decided to grind out the rivets in order to flip that gear over due to the wear on the "business" side of the gear. Another difficult spring to get out of the barrel (no worries about the spring ever slipping off the stepped rivet) and some trial-and-error in getting the rivets out. Used a Dremel to remove the top nub, used a drill to get below the surface of the gear, used a punch to push the rivet out, and sometimes I did all of those back and forth and more than once when the rivets proved stubborn. All this allowed me to remove the gear and get really specific about removing the remnants of that terrible weld job. Here's the photo mosaic:

For anyone who appreciates video more than static pictures and text, I've started uploading videos of this project to my channel. Here they are in very particular order:

https://youtu.be/qvTr68GrkSA

Removing that weld and figuring out what was actually happening here:
https://youtu.be/9G-UsCqJW0k

Removing the rivets and flipping over that main gear:
https://youtu.be/K_8vhesSj1w

Been a long time since I've posted, I haven't really made any progress! I had the barrel to a friend who does welding but was too afraid of messing up this rather hard to find part. He said he wasn't sure what the material was and that stymied any progress. Anyone have any hints for how to braze these two parts togethe?