I've recently obtained an Edison Triumph Phonograph which I am trying to fix. I've tested the motor and it works fine, and the only problem I have is that the lower belt pulley gets stuck at a certain point. The pulley can't rotate the full 360 degrees even when I do it with my hand. Something is definitely stuck or jammed. I can also see that on the pulley there are bits that are cracked, and in general it will have to be replaced.
I'm wondering can anyone give tips on how to remove this pulley? I'm not sure how to disassemble this part..
Looks like in the first pic that the screw holding the bearing for the lower pully wheel is missing.
That would make the pulley shaft have way too much play and move and possibly bind -up.
There's also another bearing on the other of side of the shaft. Check to see if its missing its adjustment screw as well.
As far as the cracks you see in the pulley..those are there because of the pot-metal its made from. It tends to crack and chip over time. It still looks servicable and should work ok.
Thanks for the reply Dave. I actually removed the screws myself in an attempt to take the pulley out and see if something was jamming it. Couldn't figure out how to actually get the pulley out and see though.. any ideas on how to disassemble this part? Not sure how the shaft comes out from the middle of the pulley.
Hello,
That pulley shaft is held in place by four screws. One at either end of the two bushings and one each that secure the two gears that share that shaft. Once you have loosened these four screws and the set screw that holds the pulley you should be able to carefully tap out the shaft. Make sure the springs in the motor are completely wound down!! A brass rod could be used to tap out the shaft so it will not damage the steel.
Pete
Admiral Kirk wrote:Thanks for the reply Dave. I actually removed the screws myself in an attempt to take the pulley out and see if something was jamming it. Couldn't figure out how to actually get the pulley out and see though.. any ideas on how to disassemble this part? Not sure how the shaft comes out from the middle of the pulley.
Ok..do you see the hole that's placed in the face of the pulley where the belt runs?
That's where you can insert a screwdriver to access the screw holding the pulley to the shaft.
Then untighten the screws holding the drive gears..and you should be able to remove the shaft.
Be careful!..you dont want to bend the shaft..so gently try to work it out and as
flashpanblue says you can use a brass rod to tap the shaft out if need be.
Could be that after you untighten the pulley from the shaft that all it needs is a little adjustment
to center it and keep it from binding on the motor casing as it spins. So you might not need to dis-assemble it at all.
Hope this helps
Last edited by Dave on Thu Oct 03, 2013 6:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hello,
I should add that you could completely remove the two screws holding the two gears. Over the years as oil dries out and grease hardens these two gears might be a little stuck on the pulley shaft. Squirt some oil in the holes where you removed the screws and give it some time to penetrate. If you don't have a brass rod a steel one will work but go gently once things start to move it should come right out. You have to tap on the end of the bearing. Do not remove the bearing and then try to tap on the shaft as each end of the shaft has been milled down to a small pin end that rides in the center of the bearing. These pin ends can damage easily!
Pete
So I worked with the Triumph today. I went to the hardware store and got a brass rod to use for the shaft.
I need a little more detail though. Please look at the photo below:
I gently tapped with the brass rod on the part marked B. It moved in just a little, but I noticed that part A also moved slightly when I was working on part B.
I'm I understanding this correctly that it is part B that will slide out completely?
I removed all of the screws for this shaft of the machine, including the ones that are used to fasten the gears.
Trying to take this slow so I don't introduce any new problems other than the one I have on the pulley. Any further help would be greatly appreciated!
In order to remove the pulley, the whole shaft must be removed. The setscrews for the gears and, I think, the pulley also tighten into flat areas milled into the shaft. First, remove all setscrews, including the ones for the bushings. At this point, the gears and pulley should be loose on the shaft and the bushings should move in their bores. More than likely this won't happen and you will use a solvent such as WD-40 to dissolve 100 years worth of solidified gunk that is holding them tight. It is a good idea to get the gears and pulley to the point where they can freely rotate and slide on the shaft so you can have good control when you try to push the bushings and shaft out of the frame. Be careful to keep the shaft as straight as possible because the free end of the shaft will drop when it clears the frame and that could bend the pin on the other end. Also, be very careful when using a punch to drive out the shaft. The frame is cast iron and may crack or break if you put too much force against it.
I know this is pretty wordy, but I hope it helps.
Completely wind down the machine, so no tension is on any of the gears. You want to loosen all set screws on the gears in line, there is the pulley, then the governor drive gear and the small pinion gear.
Next remove the bushings you marked A, (on the left and right side of the casting, by putting PB blaster in the holes that the screws were in these bushings come out and the shaft and gears will come out. I would suggest using a wooden dowel and not anything metal, if you hit on those castings too hard, they can snap, and that is that. The screws on the gears go to flat indents on the shaft, just photo which gear goes where. You might as well take all the gears out and clean them, and the spring barrel too, wash all the grease in the springs out with brake cleaner, or carb cleaner, in a well ventilated area. The motor should be removed from the top plate so that the solvents do not hurt the pin striping or paint. Replace the spring grease with Mobile 1 synthetic grease mixed with graphite, about a table spoon per barrel and a good coating of graphite. Use a 40 weight synthetic motor oil, just a drop in the bettings at the ends of the gears.
You should replace that pully, it probably is wobbly and will split when you tighten the set screw. You can purchase a new pulley from Ron Sitko, they are aluminum but are straighter than the pot metal one, even better would precision machine a new one from brass and make it more solidly than the original to act as a flywheel it would smooth out the operations even more.
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