Recovering a portable, or strip to wood finish?

[windup]

I was wondering what the opinions would be, on whether to attempt to recover completely, a portable gramophone case with, say, tolex, or to strip to wood and stain/shellac/varnish.

I am worried I would not make a neat job of recovering it, especially around all the fiddly bits. Just wondered if serious restorers would be horrified at the idea of a dark wood varnish finish.

[Phono48]

Most portables, in my experience, are made of cheap plywood, which always looks like cheap plywood, no matter what finish you apply.
I don't know what Tolex looks like, but I recovered a portable with a vinyl-based covering and it looked dreadful, far too modern looking and shiny. There is a firm over here that makes original-style Rexine, which is what portables were covered in originally. If you use PVA adhesive to fix the covering, it allows you plenty of time to adjust and cut the corners etc. Once you've done one corner, you'll get the idea. The only thing to watch out for is to not get too thick a material, as the extra thickness will throw lid hinges and the clasps out of alignment. Have a go, you may surprise yourself, I did!

Barry

[FloridaClay]

I haven't yet taken on recovering a portable that came with "leatherette" type covering. One thing I have wondered about is how do you deal with the hinges and latches that are often put on with brads and that I would think should be removed to do the recovering, and often need replating also. Can the brads be removed without damaging the case? Can you get appropriate replacements that can be used when the hardware is reinstalled?

At least I think "brad" is the right term.

Clay

[Phono48]

Can the brads be removed without damaging the case? Can you get appropriate replacements that can be used when the hardware is reinstalled?

I've just restored a US made Columbia 163 portable, which unlike British machines, used the things you call brads. Over here they are known as bifurcated rivets, which are rivets with a split shank. They are inserted through the fitting and the cabinet, and the split is then then opened up, the two halves being bent flat against the case. It was very difficult to remove them without marking the case, as the bent pieces were sunk into the wood, and had to be dug out. It was impossible to replace the originals again, as the two halves of the shank snapped off as they were being re-bent. New rivets are available, but the two halves of the shank are impossible to bend back to the point where they sit flush, or just below the surface of the wood. As I had the external fittings replated, I filled the holes with thin wood dowels, and used polished brass woodscrews to fix the lid clips. The carrying handle would not have held the weight of the machine with woodscrews alone, so I used brass nuts and bolts, but had to countersink the nuts inside the cabinet, so as not to foul the big brass wings as they came dowm.

[windup]

Most portables, in my experience, are made of cheap plywood, which always looks like cheap plywood, no matter what finish you apply.
I don't know what Tolex looks like, but I recovered a portable with a vinyl-based covering and it looked dreadful, far too modern looking and shiny. There is a firm over here that makes original-style Rexine, which is what portables were covered in originally. If you use PVA adhesive to fix the covering, it allows you plenty of time to adjust and cut the corners etc. Once you've done one corner, you'll get the idea. The only thing to watch out for is to not get too thick a material, as the extra thickness will throw lid hinges and the clasps out of alignment. Have a go, you may surprise yourself, I did!

Barry

This one has solid wood on the sides, but a ply top and bottom. I chose a ply with nice grain finish for the top sheet in case I decide not to cover it. I was thinking of a very dark finish if I don't cover it, maybe even Japan black.

Tolex is the vinyl covering used on most guitar amplifier cabinets. Hard wearing and designed to be stuck on wood. I hear what you say about thicknesss being a problem though. Also, this thing has very rounded corners on the front and rear edges, and folding vinyl around them is going to be VERY hard. Square corners I could handle.

[windup]

Can the brads be removed without damaging the case? Can you get appropriate replacements that can be used when the hardware is reinstalled?

I've just restored a US made Columbia 163 portable, which unlike British machines, used the things you call brads. Over here they are known as bifurcated rivets, which are rivets with a split shank. They are inserted through the fitting and the cabinet, and the split is then then opened up, the two halves being bent flat against the case. It was very difficult to remove them without marking the case, as the bent pieces were sunk into the wood, and had to be dug out. It was impossible to replace the originals again, as the two halves of the shank snapped off as they were being re-bent. New rivets are available, but the two halves of the shank are impossible to bend back to the point where they sit flush, or just below the surface of the wood. As I had the external fittings replated, I filled the holes with thin wood dowels, and used polished brass woodscrews to fix the lid clips. The carrying handle would not have held the weight of the machine with woodscrews alone, so I used brass nuts and bolts, but had to countersink the nuts inside the cabinet, so as not to foul the big brass wings as they came dowm.

I managed to buy nickel plated case clips that are very similar to original, and they came with rivets. I will use screws, as originally used, instead though. Haven't been able to source the hinges yet (the originals are too far gone to re-use). They are the type with a little sliding bracket that stops them opening at about 90 degrees.

[JerryVan]

Forming the covering over the rounded corners can most likely be aided by using a hair dryer to soften the covering. In order to not have the material bunch-up or gather, some degree of stretching will be needed and a hair dryer will help. (It works the same way when installing a new top on a 1920's antique car sedan roof.) Practice it a few times and you'll get it right.

The fasteners are split rivets. I like the term bifurcated however, it's used far too little. For what it's worth, orthophonic horns are known as bifurcated horns. At least that's how I've seen them described at times.

[JerryVan]

Look for hinges on eBay. There are a couple of sellers who market replacement hardware for antique machinist's tool boxes. They used what might be a similar hinge to what you need.

[windup]

Look for hinges on eBay. There are a couple of sellers who market replacement hardware for antique machinist's tool boxes. They used what might be a similar hinge to what you need.

I managed to salvage some hinges from something else. They were in much better condition. I will keep a look out on eBay just the same. Thanks.