Also requires a small amount of line stencil drawing on the edges.
Please forgive me if I ham not utilizing the correct terminology/vernacular for this request.
Need help to restore/repaint/reenamel cast metal bed plate
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- Victor I
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Thu May 29, 2014 4:35 pm
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- Victor O
- Posts: 77
- Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:30 am
Re: Need help to restore/repaint/reenamel cast metal bed pla
George
What kind of machine are you working on? Edison cylinder bedplates used black japanning technique, which is asphaltum based. See these links for more info.
http://www.cranialstorage.com/Wood/japa ... apan-Metal
http://www.dickblick.com/products/aspha ... escription
http://libertyonthehudson.com/
John
What kind of machine are you working on? Edison cylinder bedplates used black japanning technique, which is asphaltum based. See these links for more info.
http://www.cranialstorage.com/Wood/japa ... apan-Metal
http://www.dickblick.com/products/aspha ... escription
http://libertyonthehudson.com/
John
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- Victor VI
- Posts: 3720
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:00 pm
- Location: Western, WA State
Re: Need help to restore/repaint/reenamel cast metal bed pla
First, lets determine how much paint loss in on the bed plate. If there are minor chips or slight loss, it van be touched up with a paint marker. If the bed plate is rusted and major paint loss, then I would re-paint it. Remove all of the parts to prepare the bed plate. Remove rust and loose paint. Make sure the bed plate is as smooth and clean as it gets. There will be imperfections of the casting process. I use Krylon gloss black Fusion spray paint. It is very gentle and doesn't harm the existing paint. You don't need primer. This is a stronger type of model enamel. The color is a dead ringer to the original color. Mask off the little holes where the screws and other fittings go into. The will prevent the paint from going in those areas. Use several light coats instead of one heavy coat. About 2-3 coats is sufficient. The paint dries fast in about 15 minutes. I would wait a couple of hours until completely dry. After the last coat is applied, let dry for 2 days so the paint is completely hardened and cured. For the stenciling, you can do it free hand with a gold pen if you have a steady hand. For the rest of us, there are the Greg Cline decals. I use model rail road gold stripes on my machines. After the stenciling is applied, use a light coat of Bullseye orange shellack. That will give the decals that "orangey" look. Then put everything together and enjoy. I suggest you get Eric Reiss's Complete Talking Machine. It is the bible for restorations and phonographs in general. Keep us posted on your progress.
Harvey Kravitz
Harvey Kravitz
GeorgeDixon wrote:Also requires a small amount of line stencil drawing on the edges.
Please forgive me if I ham not utilizing the correct terminology/vernacular for this request.