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Thanks, I thought I would put some pictures of the process and a copy of the PM I sent, it may help others with their restoration work. The final cut and polish has not yet been done on this machine.
This is a model D gear cover just to show I got better with the pin striping after doing the Home, mind you I have seen some very average striping on some original machine, I suppose they had to learn too.
This is a copy of some question I answered for Mike.
1.) what did you use to re-paint your bedplate and what was your process
I used an automotive system, 1st I striped the bed plate back and cleaned the surface with deoxodine (oxalic acid) this removes rust.
You then need to mask anything you don't want paint to get on, holes need to be plugged so they don't fill with paint also. Masking will have to be redone after primer has been rubbed back too.
I then sprayed on a thin coat of etch primer, this aids adhesion. This must be applied very thin it has to be transparent.
This was then followed by 3 coats of automotive primer surfacer (undercoat) I left this for a couple of days then cut it back with 800 wet and dry (Silicone carbide) paper. It is a good idea to spray a very fine coat of black (sprayed like dust not wet) over the primer prior to cutting back, this is called a guide coat. How it works is, when the black is gone you have rubbed it back enough and it shows if you have missed a spot. If there is any black left behind it means your surface needs more work.
I then spray painted 6 coats of acrylic lacquer, this was then left for a week to dry out. I then burnished (polished) the surface with buffing compound by hand with a soft cotton cloth ( this will depend on how good your finish is, you may have to cut it back with 1200 or 2000 wet and dry before polishing.
2.) where did you purchase the new pin-stripping for your bedplate
This pin striping was not purchased, it was painted on by hand. I purchased at our local Bunnings store (hardware store) gold craft paint and a bottle of flow medium.
I got two types of Gold one was a Deep gold the other was a Bright gold. I mixed the two together to get the right shade and added enough flow medium so it would flow nicely from my applicator, this will take some trial and error.
The applicator. This is a device found in most compass sets ( not the compass that points north) It is a type of ink pen with adjustable jaws, adjust these jaws to the desired width of your pin stripe and then use a match to pick up your paint and load this into the top of the jaws and it will flow to the tip, (do not dip the pen in the paint)
You can use a ruler for a guide for straight lines or drag your finger along the lower edge to guide your pen. I have found that for doing corners you can tape a match to your pen so it sits lower then the tip and sits out the enough to give you the distance you want to have the line from the edge.
3.) did you use shellac for your case and lid and what was your process
Yes I used Shellac. First I stripped back all the old Shellac with metholated spirits. I then examined the surface and decided that it needed to be sanded back, I did this with a cork sanding block and 150 grade aluminum oxide dry sanding paper.
The surface was then grain filled and left to dry. I then sanded the surface with a very fine 320 aluminum oxide dry paper until smooth also using the cork block ( I like to sand back with a block because this keeps the surface flat there will be no indents from your fingers)
The surface was then stained with walnut stain and then allowed to dry for 24 hours. This is important, if you don't let it dry it will streak when you apply the shellac, if you find that after 24 hours there is still a removable residue from the stain you can wipe over the surface with a clean cloth dampened with metho.
I then applied 5 coats of shellac allowing time to dry between coats. I applied these coats with a very good quality, fine flat 3.5 cm wide artist brush. You must work fast, smooth and neat, you must also work from a wet edge, Shellac dries fast, if you miss a bit don't go back over it, wait for it to dry and get it with your next coat.
This was then left for a week or two to dry out, I then cut this back with 800 wet and dry (also done with the cork block) apart from the curved and shaped parts. I keep adding coats ( about 4 at a time, allowing to dry between coats) and cutting back until the surface is flat and perfect. I then do a final cut back with 1200 or 2000 wet and dry and gently polish the surface with 0000 steel wool and cabinet makers wax, until it shines .
Decals. When the surface is flat, before my last 5 coats of Shellac I apply the water slide decal, now most of these are on a shaped clear surface and the edge of this can show, so when you cut back for the last time use you block to smooth the edge of the decal, you need to rub until the shine has gone from the edge of the decal this won't be a lot as the decal is thin. Be very careful not to cut through the shellac, this is why I apply 4 to 5 coats over the decal
4.) what method did you use to clean your motor. did you paint it since the entire motor looks "factory fresh"
I striped the motor right down and cleaned it with Kerosene, this includes the springs, any really dirty parts are soaked in kero and sometimes scrubbed with a scotch brite pad. Rusty parts are treated with oxalic acid. I would never paint a motor unless this was how it was originally done.
5.)did you have your mainspring replaced and/or re-wound
The spring that was in the machine was in very good working order, all I had to do was remove all the built up grease and grime and polish it with a fine scotch brite pad. I then wipe the entire spring with a lightly oiled rag, then put some moly grease in the bottom of the spring barrel, then fit the spring, I then squirt a little machine oil on the edge of the spring so it goes into the coils, then put some moly grease on the spring and replace the cap.
Hope this helps
Regards Marcel
Fablous job I can do all this working in the automotive industry as i do However whom can i get to do the pin stripeing see my current project here.