Need opinions on restorations

[Patrick]

Most of the time I strip my Edison cylinder players down ,cabinets ,metal and re decal and paint to look as if new.Lately I have got a few in that didn't look that bad,most the decals were there and the cabinets were not that bad so I'm leaning to just cleaning them up , polishing up the metal and cleaning the cabinets.I have this hang up on perfection and it kills me to do nothing but there is something to be said about Edison's untouched and original .I know there are 2 schools of thoughts on this.Some say never take them down and totally restore but I'm cheap and usually buy the ones that look like crap and if I only cleaned them up they still would look like crap.Now I got a couple in that look good unrestored.Should I stain and varnish them or just clean them and leave them alone? and what do your recommend to prepare for display?

[Steve Levi]

Don't sweat the small stuff. It's always going to be in the eye of the beholder or owner. Sure there are 2 camps of thought on this. There are 2 markets also. Some machines are just too far gone and something has to be done. I have no advice as to when to do or not to do. I believe that is up to the owner. I also think it is OK to solicit advice from others. There have been many machines posted on this forum that have been restored and they are beautiful. Again, I wouldn't worry about it , just my two cents. Steve

[MidMich]

Hello Patrick
I am new to this hobby, but I have been restoring British motorcycles since the start of the 70's. Same question comes up. Some are fanatically about keeping them 100% stock, Some restore them to the max(better then when they were new), Some just get them running and some customize them.
What I have learned is simple-- What do YOU what to do with it. Is it an investment, a rare one of a kind?, or do you want to just get it working good. If you enjoy working on them and then plan on keeping it as a trophy or a player, then do what you want.
I have a Amberola 50 that I purchased for the same family that had it since new and I just oiled and wiped it down. I also have 2 basket case Amberola 30's. I need to redo the finish on the wood on both. I am planing on cleaning, carefully using alcohol to remove what is left of the shellac while retaining the OEM stain. And then redoing using shellac, most of the metal parts will be cleaned up and then if not in too bad of shape, they will be rubbed out using SCJohnson paste wax. The old style in the yellow tub. If I have to repaint, I will bead blast and re-coat using Stove enamel. I try to redo using the same stuff that was used back then. All gluing will be done using hide glue. I am not fanatical enough to use the dry mix and heat glue( it really stinks and this is winter, so I will be inside). I will use the "Old Brown Glue" , liquid hide glue.
Jeff Klender

[Patrick]

Nice Amberola and cute baby.Thanks for the tips guys. I think ill peck at the restorations going from least on up and see how they look as I go.

[MidMich]

Thanks Patrick, one of my grandsons. Common Methods to hold things together back was either wood screws or hide glue. They loved hide glue for the same reason it is still used on musical instruments. It is reversible and very strong. You can heat it up with a little moisture and it will come right apart and then you can heat it up and put it back together again, over and over again. All of the veneers are held on with hide glue. Normal hide comes in dry flakes that you mix with hot water and let stand. Then you have to warm it up and use it. It bonds fast and it holds extremely well. But it alos smells when warmed up. They make a liquid version that works well. Titebond and Old Brown Glue are two company's that make and sell it. Once I get started on the two Amberolas, I will post photos and updates.
Jeff

[DGPros]

I'm in the camp of, if it's going to bother you, do it, just do it right. There's plenty of info on the internet now to help a beginner.(yes you will make mistakes, but they usually can be fixed) Also patience, these things don't get fixed overnight. Remember, most machines only need a good cleaning. Most of mine have just been cleaned with lemon oil. My first REAL project was restoring a XVII in walnut.I was prepared for the worst, but found all it needed was a great cleaning and some shellac to protect it for the next 100 years.(the motor is another story, as I now find every motor with less than 4 springs a breeze to fix ) I was surprised at the results, yes it took me months, but an hour here and an hour there(that's where the patience takes place) brought her back and sitting in my living room. It's a great feeling to bring something back that was nearly junked. Best of luck with your projects, and show us your progress. I know I love seeing those posts.

[MidMich]

Excellent piece of work! I have had good luck with SCJohnson paste wax and an old sock for cleaning. The old style paste wax that still comes in the yellow tin tub. It was originally made to clean and protect hardwood floors and still does the job.
Jeff

[DGPros]

Excellent piece of work! I have had good luck with SCJohnson paste wax and an old sock for cleaning. The old style paste wax that still comes in the yellow tin tub. It was originally made to clean and protect hardwood floors and still does the job.
Jeff

I will have to try out the SCJohnson, and lord knows I have plenty of old socks....My main complaint with the shellac is getting rid of the brush lines. I need to work on my wax and buffing next

[Lucius1958]

My main complaint with the shellac is getting rid of the brush lines.

I generally prefer using a "french polish" technique with shellac: you don't get the brush lines that way.

(Granted, it takes longer, and requires more elbow grease: but the end result is worth it).

Bill

[Henry]

Johnson's paste wax in the yellow can has a very long shelf life, if the can lid is tightly replaced after each opening. I've got a can of the stuff, still viable, that is at least 30 years old, "inherited" from my late father-in-law, who passed in 1986. Lord only knows how long he had had it up to then. Unless you use a lot of it, chances are that one can will last you a lifetime. BTW, look for this stuff in a traditional hardware store; that's the only place I see it for sale these days.